There's a moment every Great Lakes salmon angler knows: you mark fish at 47 feet on your fish finder, run a spoon through that zone, and nothing happens. You drop a lead core rig — still nothing. Then you clip a downrigger ball at exactly 47 feet, let it out, and 90 seconds later you're fighting a 12-pound chinook. That's the downrigger difference — not "fish deeper," but fish precisely.
Cannon has dominated the freshwater downrigger market for decades, and their 2026 lineup is the best they've offered. We've run Cannon electric downriggers on 19-foot aluminum boats in Lake Ontario chop and on fully rigged charter fishing rigs trolling for walleye in Lake Erie. This guide covers every current model, the real differences between manual and electric, what to look for before you buy, and which unit is actually worth your money based on how you fish.
What a Downrigger Actually Does
A downrigger is a spool of heavy stainless cable attached to a boom arm mounted on your transom or gunwale. A weighted ball — typically 8–12 lbs — rides on the cable and carries your fishing line down to a precise depth. A release clip holds your line under tension. When a fish strikes, the line pops free and you fight the fish on whatever rod and reel setup you're running.
The result: you can place your lure at exactly 52 feet at 2.4 mph trolling speed, and hold it there. No guessing. No counting planer boards. No lead core math. For salmon, trout, walleye, and lake trout, this kind of depth precision is the difference between a cooler full of fish and a story about the one that didn't bite.
If you're also looking for gear to locate the fish before you deploy your downriggers, check out our guide deep dive on CHIRP sonar explained — knowing what's at 47 feet before you set your rigger is half the battle.
The Cannon Lineup for 2026
Cannon makes downriggers in two broad categories: manual (crank-operated) and electric (motor-driven with a remote). Within those, you've got entry-level, mid-range, and top-shelf units. Here's every current model worth considering.
Manual Downriggers
Cannon Easi-Troll ST — $238
The Easi-Troll is Cannon's most affordable downrigger, and it's genuinely good for what it is. The boom extends to 18 inches, handles balls up to 10 lbs, and has a single-release mounting bracket. The manual counter is a basic mechanical dial — workable for calm, shallow fisheries, but not precise enough for serious depth control.
Where it makes sense: small boats, calm inland lakes, anglers just getting started with downriggers. If you're trolling a 14-foot aluminum on a Wisconsin inland lake at 1.8 mph, the Easi-Troll handles the job. Where it doesn't: it's slow to retrieve in any wind or current, and the mechanical counter is a guessing game once you're beyond 30 feet.
Shop the Cannon Easi-Troll ST →
Cannon Uni-Troll 10 STX — $357
The step-up manual option — and the one we'd actually recommend if you're committed to going manual. The Uni-Troll features a 24-inch boom, handles up to 10 lbs of ball weight, and has a digital depth counter. No more estimating. The "STX" designation means stainless cable (the older Uni-Troll used galvanized) and a swivel base for cleaner positioning when setting multiple rods.
The crank handle retrieves faster than the Easi-Troll, and for calm morning fishing in shallow-to-medium water, it's a clean, durable setup that'll run for years with minimal maintenance.
Shop the Cannon Uni-Troll 10 STX →
Electric Downriggers
Electric retrieve transforms downrigger fishing from a labor-intensive exercise into something smooth and repeatable. Motor-driven retrieve from 80 feet takes about 20 seconds. Manual retrieval from 80 feet takes much, much longer — and when fish move shallower mid-troll, those seconds matter.
Cannon Mag 10 STX — $625
The Mag 10 STX is where most serious Great Lakes anglers start with Cannon electric. 10-lb ball capacity, 24-inch boom, motor-driven retrieve, digital depth counter with line-out display. The 180:1 gear reduction motor retrieves from 80 feet in about 20 seconds. The stainless cable is the same grade as Cannon's higher-end units.
What to know: the Mag 10 STX doesn't have a trolling speed sensor. You're running on depth count alone — the display shows cable out, not actual ball depth corrected for cable angle. At trolling speeds under 2.5 mph, this isn't a meaningful issue. Push past 3 mph and your indicated depth and actual depth diverge. For most chinook and coho setups running dodger-and-fly at 2.0–2.5 mph, it's a non-issue. For faster trolling applications, it matters.
We've run the Mag 10 STX for three seasons on Lake Superior. It's survived whitecap conditions and a fouled cable at 65 feet. Solid unit.
Quick Comparison: All Cannon Models
| Model | Type | Ball Cap. | Boom | Counter | Speed Sensor | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Easi-Troll ST | Manual | 10 lbs | 18" | Mechanical | No | $238 |
| Uni-Troll 10 STX | Manual | 10 lbs | 24" | Digital | No | $357 |
| Mag 10 STX | Electric | 10 lbs | 24" | Digital | No | $625 |
Manual vs. Electric: The Real Decision
Electric downriggers cost 2–4x more than manual. Whether that premium is worth it depends entirely on how you fish.
Go manual if you're fishing calm inland lakes at slow trolling speeds, running a single rod, rarely going below 40 feet, or budget-constrained and just getting started. The Uni-Troll 10 STX is the right choice here — the digital counter is a real improvement over guessing.
Go electric if you're fishing water deeper than 50 feet regularly, running multiple downriggers, or want the ability to adjust depth quickly when fish move. And fish move constantly — that's the thing people don't fully appreciate until they've been on the water with electric riggers.
When fish shift from 45 feet to 35 feet at 10 AM (extremely common during a Great Lakes salmon troll), you're back in the zone in 8 seconds with electric retrieve. Manually, that same adjustment takes 90+ seconds of cranking. Over a 6-hour trip, that adds up to a meaningful amount of time where your bait isn't where the fish are.
Buying Guide: Questions to Ask Before You Buy
How many rods are you running? If you're running two rods, you need two downriggers. Four rods means four downriggers. Sharing a single downrigger between two rods destroys the depth precision that makes them worth using.
What's your typical fishing depth? Shallow walleye fishing (20–35 feet) on calm lakes? Manual works fine. Offshore Great Lakes salmon at 80–120 feet? Electric is mandatory unless you enjoy exhaustion.
What's your trolling speed? Under 2.5 mph, a non-speed-corrected digital counter is accurate enough. Above 3.0 mph, you want a TS model.
What's your mounting situation? All Cannon models use a standard transom mount. The Elite's 30-inch boom needs more clearance — measure your transom width and gunwale spacing before ordering if you're running multiple units.
Do you plan to use Trollmaster? Cannon's optional Trollmaster Pro remote lets you operate all your downriggers from the helm. If that appeals to you (on larger boats, it's transformative), make sure you buy TS-compatible models — that means the Digi-Troll 10 TS or Mag 10 Elite.
For more on building out a complete fishing electronics package, see our guides on the Garmin Livescope Plus setup and our marine transducer buyer's guide — choosing the right transducer to pair with your fish finder will help you mark depth precisely before you deploy your downrigger.
The Bottom Line
For most recreational anglers targeting salmon, trout, or walleye in the Great Lakes or similar depth-variable fisheries. The speed-corrected depth counter is a genuine fishing advantage, Trollmaster integration is there when you want it, and the unit is built to last a decade with basic annual maintenance.
Budget anglers starting out on shallow-water fisheries can get real use from the Uni-Troll 10 STX manual at $357 — the digital counter makes it meaningfully better than the Easi-Troll for actual depth control.
👉 Shop All Downriggers at NVN Marine →
Related Guides from NVN Marine
- CHIRP Sonar Explained: Why Frequency Matters for Finding Fish
- Garmin Livescope Plus System: Complete Setup Guide
- Best Trolling Motors of 2026: Minn Kota vs Motorguide Breakdown
- Marine Transducer Buyer's Guide: Through-Hull, Transom & In-Hull
Frequently Asked Questions
How heavy should my downrigger ball be?
Most freshwater salmon and trout trolling works well with 8–12 lb balls. Heavier balls (10–12 lbs) hold depth better at higher trolling speeds and in current. Lighter balls are easier to retrieve manually but blow back more at speed, reducing depth accuracy. For electric downriggers, a 10 lb ball is the standard.
Can I use a downrigger on a small boat?
Yes. Cannon's manual downriggers (Easi-Troll and Uni-Troll) are compact enough for 14-foot aluminum boats. The transom mount is straightforward to install, and the units add minimal weight. Electric downriggers are heavier and require a 12V power connection — practical on most bass boats and larger aluminum rigs, but worth measuring your available transom space first.
How do I maintain a Cannon downrigger cable?
Inspect your stainless cable once per season for frays, kinks, or corrosion. A single broken strand means replacing the cable — don't fish on a frayed cable; it can snap under load. Annually, wipe the cable with a light oil (3-in-1 or similar) before storage. Replace the cable every 3–5 years depending on use, regardless of visible condition. Cannon sells replacement cables in 150, 200, and 250-foot spools.
Do I need a Cannon downrigger rod holder?
Cannon sells dedicated downrigger rod holders ($39–$59) designed to integrate with their downrigger mount systems. They position your rod at the correct angle for line management when the release clip fires. Standard rod holders work, but Cannon-specific holders reduce tangles and create cleaner setups when running multiple downriggers. If you're running two or more riggers, the dedicated holders are worth it.
