{"product_id":"uflex-mach14x11-479-type-control-cable-11-ft","title":"Uflex Mach14X11 479-Type Control Cable | 11 ft","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Uflex Mach14X11 is an 11-foot marine engine control cable built for 479-type single-lever controls. It's a direct replacement for the CC205 series that shipped on 1979-and-later OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP setups. The Mach core gives you smooth, precise throttle and shift response, even on long runs and tight bends.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Uflex Mach14X11 is an 11-foot engine control cable made for boats running 479-type single-lever controls. If you've got a stiff throttle, a shift that won't seat cleanly, or a cable that's finally worn out after years of salt and sun, this is the direct replacement that gets your helm feeling right again. It's built to the CC205 pattern, so the ends drop straight into the same control box and engine linkage you already have.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets the Mach series apart is how it moves. The core is designed for low friction and quick response, which matters most on longer runs and anywhere the cable has to take a tight bend behind the dash or down to the engine. You push the lever, the engine answers. No mushy dead spot, no fighting the shift into gear at the dock. On an older boat that's been limping along with a tired cable, the difference is immediate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHere's something worth knowing if you're new to this. A single-lever control uses two cables, one for throttle and one for shift, both working off the same handle. The Mach14X11 is one cable, so check whether you need to replace both while you're in there. If one cable is worn, the other usually isn't far behind, and doing them together saves you pulling the console apart twice. Match the length and type for each run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFitment is the whole story with a control cable, so let's be specific. This one replaces 479-type CC205 cables and fits single-lever controls on OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP engines from 1979 to the present. That covers a huge swath of outboards and stern drives from that era forward. The end fittings match the factory geometry, so you're not shimming, drilling, or improvising an adapter to make it seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLength is the part people get wrong, so measure before you order. Eleven feet is a sweet spot for a lot of 16-to-18-foot tiller and side-console boats where the run from the control to the engine is short and direct. If you're rigging a center console or running the cable through the transom and up under a taller dash, measure the actual path with a piece of rope first. When you're on the fence between two lengths, go longer. A cable that's an inch too short is scrap, and one that's a little long just makes a gentle loop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA few install notes from boats we've helped rig. Give both ends a shot of marine silicone grease when you connect them. It keeps the action smooth and buys you extra seasons before saltwater friction creeps in. Use the supplied grommet where the cable passes the engine clamp. That grommet isn't optional trim, it keeps the jacket from chafing and cracking against a hard edge, and that matters a lot on a high-vibration two-stroke. And if you're feeding a cable on an older stringer drive or a longer hull, add a support bracket along the run so the cable isn't sagging and loading the ends.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCables like this are wear items, plain and simple. They live in a wet, hot, constantly flexing environment, and even a good one has a service life. The upside is that swapping one is one of the more satisfying fixes on a boat. Cheap in parts, big in payoff. Keep the ends greased, keep the routing clean without sharp kinks, and this cable will give you smooth, predictable control for a long time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho's this for? Anyone repowering, rebuilding a control box, or just chasing down a sloppy shifter on a Johnson, Evinrude, OMC, or BRP rig from the last four decades. It's a straightforward job for a weekend mechanic, and the payoff is a helm that shifts and throttles the way it did when the boat was new. If you're not sure this is the right length or end type for your setup, give us a call before you order. We'd rather get you the right cable the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e479-type CC205 replacement, drops into existing OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP single-lever controls without adapters\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e11-foot length suits short, direct runs on 16 to 18 foot tiller and side-console boats\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMach series low-friction core delivers quick, precise throttle and shift response on long runs and tight bends\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFactory-matched end fittings seat in the original control box and engine linkage geometry\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP engines from 1979 to present\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSupplied grommet protects the cable jacket from chafing at the engine clamp on high-vibration engines\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSingle-lever control cable for throttle or shift, order two to replace a full control setup\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Uflex USA reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat does the Uflex Mach14X11 fit?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt replaces 479-type CC205 control cables and fits single-lever controls on OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP engines from 1979 to the present. The ends match the factory geometry, so it seats in your existing control box and engine linkage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow long is this cable?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eEleven feet. That's measured along the cable, not the boat. Measure your actual routing path before ordering, and if you're between sizes, go with the longer one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill 11 feet be long enough for my boat?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eEleven feet works well for a lot of 16 to 18 foot tiller and side-console boats with a short, direct run. On a center console or anything routing through the transom and up to a taller dash, it can be tight. Run a piece of rope along the path first to check.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I need one cable or two?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eA single-lever control uses two cables, one for throttle and one for shift. The Mach14X11 is one cable. If one is worn, the other usually is too, so most people replace both at once while the console is open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat's special about the Mach series core?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's built for low friction and quick response. On long runs or where the cable has to take a tight bend, that's what keeps the throttle crisp and the shift from feeling mushy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I need any grease or lube on install?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, we recommend a shot of marine silicone grease at both ends when you connect them. It keeps the action smooth and holds off saltwater friction for extra seasons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat is the grommet for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt protects the cable jacket where it passes the engine clamp. Skipping it lets the jacket chafe and crack against a hard edge, which is a common failure point on high-vibration two-stroke engines. Use it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I use this on a stern drive or stringer drive?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, it fits OMC applications from 1979 forward. On older stringer drives or longer hulls, add a support bracket along the run so the cable doesn't sag and load the ends.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this a hard install?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's a reasonable weekend job for a hands-on owner. The end fittings match the factory setup, so there's no drilling or adapting. Take your time routing it without sharp kinks and grease the ends.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow long will the cable last?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eControl cables are wear items in a wet, hot, flexing environment. Keep the ends greased and the routing clean, and you'll get many seasons of smooth control before it's due for another swap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eReplacement For OMC\/ Evinrude\/Johnson\/ BRP\/ Teleflex 479 Type CC205 Control Cables; 11 Foot Length\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUflex USA\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMACH14X11\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e702755027829\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSeries\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMach\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable Length\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e11 ft\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable Standard\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e479 Type\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eReplaces\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCC205 control cables\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eEngine Compatibility\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOMC, Johnson, Evinrude, BRP\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eModel Year Coverage\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1979 to present\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eControl Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSingle-lever remote controls\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eApplication\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarine engine throttle\/shift control cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What does the Uflex Mach14X11 fit?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It replaces 479-type CC205 control cables and fits single-lever controls on OMC, Johnson, Evinrude, and BRP engines from 1979 to the present. The ends match the factory geometry, so it seats in your existing control box and engine linkage.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How long is this cable?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Eleven feet. That's measured along the cable, not the boat. Measure your actual routing path before ordering, and if you're between sizes, go with the longer one.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will 11 feet be long enough for my boat?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Eleven feet works well for a lot of 16 to 18 foot tiller and side-console boats with a short, direct run. On a center console or anything routing through the transom and up to a taller dash, it can be tight. Run a piece of rope along the path first to check.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I need one cable or two?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"A single-lever control uses two cables, one for throttle and one for shift. The Mach14X11 is one cable. If one is worn, the other usually is too, so most people replace both at once while the console is open.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What's special about the Mach series core?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's built for low friction and quick response. On long runs or where the cable has to take a tight bend, that's what keeps the throttle crisp and the shift from feeling mushy.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I need any grease or lube on install?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, we recommend a shot of marine silicone grease at both ends when you connect them. It keeps the action smooth and holds off saltwater friction for extra seasons.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What is the grommet for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It protects the cable jacket where it passes the engine clamp. Skipping it lets the jacket chafe and crack against a hard edge, which is a common failure point on high-vibration two-stroke engines. Use it.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I use this on a stern drive or stringer drive?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, it fits OMC applications from 1979 forward. On older stringer drives or longer hulls, add a support bracket along the run so the cable doesn't sag and load the ends.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this a hard install?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's a reasonable weekend job for a hands-on owner. The end fittings match the factory setup, so there's no drilling or adapting. 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