{"product_id":"uflex-mach-36-mercury-gen-ii-control-cable-15-ft","title":"Uflex Mach 36 Mercury Gen II Control Cable 15 ft","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Uflex Mach 36 is a 15-foot control cable built to drop straight into a Mercury Generation II control system. When your throttle gets stiff or your shift feels vague, a fresh cable brings back that crisp, one-finger action at the helm. It's the Mach series quality Uflex is known for, ready to rig up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eControl cables are one of those parts you forget about until the day they start fighting you. This Uflex Mach 36 cable is a 15-foot replacement for a Generation II control system, and it handles both throttle and shift through a single run from your control box to the engine. It's part of the Uflex Mach series, the line the company builds for boaters who want the helm to feel tight again without guessing at fitment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou know it's time for a new cable when the throttle goes stiff, the shift lever needs a shove to find gear, or you feel a notchy, gritty drag through the whole travel. That's usually the inner core binding inside the housing, and no amount of lubricant at the helm end fixes it once the core has corroded. Swapping in a fresh cable is a straightforward afternoon job on most single-engine boats, and it's a lot cheaper than living with a control that hides neutral on you at the dock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 15-foot length suits a lot of center consoles and bowriders where the run from a side-mount or binnacle control to the transom is short and mostly straight. Measure your existing cable before you order, and measure the actual path, not the straight-line distance. Every bend around a stringer, every loop through the bilge, and every bit of slack you need at the engine to let it tilt and steer eats into that 15 feet. If your boat has a long under-deck run, a walkaround cabin, or a helm set well forward, step up to a longer cable so you're not pulling the run tight. A cable with no slack binds, and a cable that binds wears out fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInstallation is mechanical, not electrical, so you don't need to touch a wire. Disconnect the old cable at both ends, note how it was routed, and feed the new one along the same path. Before you connect either end, work some marine grease into the core and the housing ends. A dry cable feels fine on the bench and turns stiff by mid-season. Secure the run with cable clamps roughly every 18 inches so it can't chafe against a stringer or slap around underway. Take your time at the engine end and confirm the shift hits detent cleanly in forward, neutral, and reverse before you splash the boat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOut there in salt water, the enemy is corrosion at the transom exit, where the core is most exposed to spray and standing water. That's the spot that rusts first and the reason a cable that felt fine last summer can seize over a winter. Rinse the area when you flush the engine, keep the ends greased, and plan on replacing control cables every four to five years on a saltwater boat that sees regular use. Freshwater boats stretch that out longer. Catching a tired cable early beats losing shift control when you're trying to back off a busy ramp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the right cable comes down to matching the control-end fitting to your system. The engine end is common across generations, but the control or hotfoot end is what changes, so a Generation II cable has to mate to a Generation II control. This Mach 36 uses the Generation II connections, so it drops into that setup without adapters. Running twin engines? Order two identical lengths for port and starboard so the shift and throttle travel feels the same on both levers. Mismatched lengths give you two engines that respond a hair differently, and that gets annoying fast in close quarters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a repower, a refit, or just a long-overdue swap, this is a clean, no-drama way to get your controls feeling new again. It's genuine Uflex, it ships from stock, and it's the same cable our crew reaches for when a boater's throttle starts feeling like work. Rig it up right, keep it greased, and you'll forget about it again for years, which is exactly what you want from a control cable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e15-foot cable length, sized for center consoles and bowriders with a short, mostly straight run from control to transom\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGeneration II control-end connections, so it drops into a Gen II system without adapters\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCarries both throttle and shift in a single cable run for a clean, uncluttered install\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUflex Mach series construction for smooth, low-effort lever action at the helm\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eDirect-replacement fitment, matched to the control-end fitting so you get the original feel back\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMechanical install with no wiring, a straightforward afternoon job on most single-engine boats\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine Uflex part number MACH36X15, in stock and ready to ship\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Uflex USA reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat does this cable fit?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's a direct replacement for a Generation II control system, using the Generation II connections at the control end. The engine end is common across generations, so matching the control end to your setup is what matters. The 15-foot length covers a short, mostly straight run from the control to the transom.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs 15 feet the right length for my boat?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eMeasure your existing cable along its actual routed path, not the straight-line distance from helm to engine. Bends around stringers and the slack the engine needs to tilt and steer all add up. If the run is long or takes an indirect path, step up to a longer cable so it isn't pulled tight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes this handle both throttle and shift?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. A single Generation II control cable carries both the throttle and shift function from your control box to the engine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this hard to install?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's a mechanical job with no wiring involved. Disconnect the old cable at both ends, route the new one along the same path, and reconnect. Most single-engine swaps take an afternoon. Confirm the shift hits forward, neutral, and reverse cleanly before you launch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I make it last?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eGrease the core and the housing ends before install, secure the run with clamps about every 18 inches to stop chafing, and rinse the transom area when you flush the engine. On saltwater boats, plan to replace control cables every four to five years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhy does my throttle or shift feel stiff or notchy?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThat's usually the inner core binding inside the housing as it corrodes. Once the core is corroded, lubricant at the helm won't fix it. A fresh cable brings back smooth, low-effort lever action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eI have twin engines. Do I need two cables?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, one cable per engine. Order identical lengths for port and starboard so the throttle and shift travel feels the same on both levers. Mismatched lengths make the two engines respond a little differently, which is distracting in close quarters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill this work with any control box?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's built for the Generation II connection at the control end. As long as your control uses the Generation II fitting, this cable mates to it without adapters. If your control is an earlier generation, you'll need the matching cable for that system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eReplacement For Mercury Generation II Control Cables, 15 Foot Length\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUflex USA\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUflex USA\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMACH36X15\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e702755028222\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSeries\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMach Series\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eModel\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMach 36\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable Length\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e15 ft (4.6 m)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eEngine Control Cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eControl Function\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eThrottle and Shift\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCompatible Engine Brand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMercury\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCompatible Control Generation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGeneration II\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable End Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGeneration II Connections\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eFitment\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDirect Replacement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What does this cable fit?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's a direct replacement for a Generation II control system, using the Generation II connections at the control end. The engine end is common across generations, so matching the control end to your setup is what matters. The 15-foot length covers a short, mostly straight run from the control to the transom.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is 15 feet the right length for my boat?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Measure your existing cable along its actual routed path, not the straight-line distance from helm to engine. Bends around stringers and the slack the engine needs to tilt and steer all add up. If the run is long or takes an indirect path, step up to a longer cable so it isn't pulled tight.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does this handle both throttle and shift?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. A single Generation II control cable carries both the throttle and shift function from your control box to the engine.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this hard to install?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's a mechanical job with no wiring involved. Disconnect the old cable at both ends, route the new one along the same path, and reconnect. Most single-engine swaps take an afternoon. Confirm the shift hits forward, neutral, and reverse cleanly before you launch.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I make it last?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Grease the core and the housing ends before install, secure the run with clamps about every 18 inches to stop chafing, and rinse the transom area when you flush the engine. On saltwater boats, plan to replace control cables every four to five years.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Why does my throttle or shift feel stiff or notchy?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"That's usually the inner core binding inside the housing as it corrodes. Once the core is corroded, lubricant at the helm won't fix it. A fresh cable brings back smooth, low-effort lever action.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"I have twin engines. Do I need two cables?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, one cable per engine. Order identical lengths for port and starboard so the throttle and shift travel feels the same on both levers. Mismatched lengths make the two engines respond a little differently, which is distracting in close quarters.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will this work with any control box?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's built for the Generation II connection at the control end. As long as your control uses the Generation II fitting, this cable mates to it without adapters. If your control is an earlier generation, you'll need the matching cable for that system.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Uflex USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45071937601629,"sku":"2009163","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_7780c843-dffb-4855-85ee-7615c66f4ab2.png?v=1789728154","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/uflex-mach-36-mercury-gen-ii-control-cable-15-ft","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}