{"product_id":"uflex-m90bx20-mach-rotary-steering-cable-20-ft","title":"Uflex USA M90BX20 Mach Rotary Steering Cable, 20 ft Black","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Uflex USA M90BX20 is a 20-foot Mach rotary steering cable with a stainless steel output end and a 5.9-inch minimum bend radius. It fits universal rotary helms and gives you smooth, predictable mechanical steering on outboard boats and center consoles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Uflex USA M90BX20 is a 20-foot cable from the Mach series, the workhorse of mechanical rotary steering. It's the piece that actually turns the wheel into rudder or engine movement. You spin the helm, the rotary gear feeds this cable, and the stainless output end pushes and pulls at the engine tilt tube. Simple, proven, and easy to service when you know what you're doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a rotary cable, so it pairs with a rotary helm. That matters. If your dash has a rack-and-pinion helm, this isn't the cable for it. Check what you've got before you order. The good news is the Mach cable fits universal rotary helms, so it drops into most standard single-cable setups without any special adapters. The output end is the industry-standard 3\/4-inch tapered shaft, which is what the vast majority of outboard tilt tubes are built around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwenty feet is the length most guys reach for on a 22 to 26 foot center console or a mid-size outboard boat. The routing runs from the helm, down behind the dash, and back to the engine along the gunwale or under the deck. One thing worth saying up front: don't coil the excess. If you've got extra cable, route it in a wide, lazy loop instead of a tight bundle. Tight coils create friction points, and friction is what makes a steering system feel heavy after a season or two.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpeaking of tight bends, the minimum bend radius here is 5.9 inches. Respect that number. Route the cable so it never bends sharper than that, especially where it wraps around the engine well or ducks under the splashwell. Bend it tighter and the core binds, and a bound cable steers stiff and can seize on you down the road. When we rig these up, we pull the cable through the boat first and get the routing dialed in before the helm ever gets bolted to the dash. That keeps kinks out of the run and makes the whole job cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe output end is stainless steel, which is exactly what you want at the wettest, most exposed point in the whole system. The tilt tube collects salt, spray, and grime, and a plain steel fitting rusts fast down there. Stainless holds up. Still, do yourself a favor and hit that output shaft with a marine grease or dielectric grease at the helm and tube connection, especially if you run in salt water. A little grease at install and a shot each season keeps the shaft sliding free inside the tube instead of galling and locking up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe black protective jacket takes the sun and the abuse of an open boat. Like any exposed cable, it lives longer if you route it under the gunwale or behind trim where it's shaded, since years of hard UV will eventually check any outer jacket. Give the whole system a helm lube at the start of each season and this cable will give you smooth, one-finger steering for a long time. Skip the maintenance and any mechanical cable, this one included, will stiffen up on you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot sure if it's time to replace? A steering cable that's on its way out tells you. The wheel gets notchy or heavy in one direction, you feel binding at full lock, or the cable groans when you turn. Sometimes it seizes entirely and the wheel won't budge. Those are all signs the core has corroded or the jacket has let water in, and no amount of grease brings a truly seized cable back. When you're there, a fresh Mach cable makes the boat feel new again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho's this for? Anyone running mechanical rotary steering on an outboard rig who needs to replace a tired, stiff, or seized cable, or anyone rigging a new single-station helm on a boat in the low-20s to mid-20s range. It's not for hydraulic systems and it's not for rack-and-pinion helms. Match it to a rotary helm and a standard tilt tube and you're in business.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMach series rotary steering cable, direct mechanical link from the helm to the engine\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e20-foot length, sized for 22 to 26 foot center consoles and mid-size outboard boats\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eStainless steel output end fitting resists corrosion at the wet, exposed engine tilt tube\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e5.9-inch minimum bend radius lets you route around tight engine wells and splashwells\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFits universal rotary steering helms, no special adapters for standard single-cable setups\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eStandard tapered output shaft matches common outboard tilt tubes\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBlack protective outer jacket built for open-boat sun and spray\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRotary design delivers consistent, predictable steering feel lock to lock\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Uflex USA reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill this cable fit my steering helm?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt fits universal rotary steering helms, which covers most standard single-cable setups. The key thing is it has to be a rotary helm. If your dash has a rack-and-pinion helm, this cable isn't the match. Check your helm type before you order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat size boat is a 20-foot cable for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eTwenty feet is the length most people run on a 22 to 26 foot center console or similar mid-size outboard boat. The right length depends on your actual helm-to-engine routing, so measure your run if you're unsure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat is the minimum bend radius?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003e5.9 inches. Route the cable so it never bends sharper than that. Bend it tighter and the core binds, which makes steering stiff and can lead to the cable seizing over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs the output end really stainless steel?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. The output end fitting is stainless steel, which is what you want at the engine tilt tube. That's the wettest, saltiest point in the system, and stainless holds up where plain steel would rust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes this come with a steering helm or wheel?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. This is the steering cable only. You supply the rotary helm and wheel, or reuse the ones already on your boat, and this cable connects that helm to the engine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I use this with a hydraulic steering system?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. This is a mechanical rotary cable. It's built for mechanical rotary helms, not hydraulic steering. If you've got hydraulic steering, you need hydraulic hose and a helm pump instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I keep the cable from seizing up?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eTwo things. Grease the stainless output shaft with a marine or dielectric grease at install and hit it again each season, especially in salt water. And give the helm a lube at the start of every season. That keeps the core sliding free instead of galling inside the tilt tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eAny tips for the install?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003ePull the cable through the boat and get the routing set before you bolt the helm to the dash. That keeps kinks out of the run. Route any excess in a wide, easy loop rather than a tight coil, since tight coils add friction and make the wheel feel heavy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUflex USA M90BX20 Mach Rotary Steering Cable, 20 ft Black\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUflex USA\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eM90BX20\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e702755052081\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSeries\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMach\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSteering Design\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRotary\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCable Length\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e20 ft\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eJacket Color\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBlack\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eOutput End Fitting\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStainless Steel\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eMinimum Bend Radius\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5.9 in\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eHelm Compatibility\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFits universal rotary steering helm\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSteering Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMechanical\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will this cable fit my steering helm?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It fits universal rotary steering helms, which covers most standard single-cable setups. The key thing is it has to be a rotary helm. If your dash has a rack-and-pinion helm, this cable isn't the match. Check your helm type before you order.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What size boat is a 20-foot cable for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Twenty feet is the length most people run on a 22 to 26 foot center console or similar mid-size outboard boat. The right length depends on your actual helm-to-engine routing, so measure your run if you're unsure.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What is the minimum bend radius?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"5.9 inches. Route the cable so it never bends sharper than that. Bend it tighter and the core binds, which makes steering stiff and can lead to the cable seizing over time.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is the output end really stainless steel?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. The output end fitting is stainless steel, which is what you want at the engine tilt tube. That's the wettest, saltiest point in the system, and stainless holds up where plain steel would rust.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does this come with a steering helm or wheel?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. This is the steering cable only. You supply the rotary helm and wheel, or reuse the ones already on your boat, and this cable connects that helm to the engine.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I use this with a hydraulic steering system?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. This is a mechanical rotary cable. It's built for mechanical rotary helms, not hydraulic steering. If you've got hydraulic steering, you need hydraulic hose and a helm pump instead.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I keep the cable from seizing up?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Two things. Grease the stainless output shaft with a marine or dielectric grease at install and hit it again each season, especially in salt water. And give the helm a lube at the start of every season. That keeps the core sliding free instead of galling inside the tilt tube.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Any tips for the install?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Pull the cable through the boat and get the routing set before you bolt the helm to the dash. That keeps kinks out of the run. Route any excess in a wide, easy loop rather than a tight coil, since tight coils add friction and make the wheel feel heavy.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Uflex USA","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45059210641501,"sku":"2008400","price":126.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_45dd011c-686f-41b3-8770-caa87183004d.jpg?v=1789496301","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/uflex-m90bx20-mach-rotary-steering-cable-20-ft","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}