{"product_id":"taco-metals-12-ft-aluminum-rub-rail-clear-anodized","title":"TACO Metals 12 ft Clear Anodized Aluminum Rub Rail, 1 in x 1\/2 in","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThis is TACO Metals' 12 foot aluminum rub rail, a solid 1 inch by 1\/2 inch clear anodized extrusion that takes the hits your gelcoat shouldn't. Stiff, corrosion-resistant, and built for center consoles, workboats, and utility hulls. Bed it right, fasten it with stainless, and it'll guard your hull's edge for years on the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a 12 foot length of TACO Metals aluminum rub rail, standing 1 inch tall with a 1\/2 inch thickness and finished in clear anodizing. It's a solid aluminum profile built to take the hits your hull's edge shouldn't. Dock pilings, piers, the neighbor's boat at the fuel dock. The rub rail is the part that gets sacrificed so your gelcoat doesn't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAluminum makes sense here for a few reasons. It's stiff, it won't rot or go brittle in the sun the way some materials do, and the clear anodized finish gives it a bright, clean look that suits center consoles, workboats, and utility hulls. The anodizing is a protective layer that keeps the metal from oxidizing under normal use. Handle it with a little care during the install and it'll hold that finish for a long time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt 1 inch high and 1\/2 inch thick, this is a substantial extrusion, not a flimsy trim strip. That mass is what absorbs impact. Boaters have also used a length like this as a stiffener behind flush-mounted electronics or as an edge guard on trailers and equipment, so it's got some flexibility beyond the gunwale. On boats in the 28 to 35 foot range the extra section adds real rigidity where you bolt it down, though it does add a bit of weight, so plan your fastener spacing accordingly. Tighten the spacing near the ends and around high-impact spots, and the rail won't flex loose over a few seasons of hard use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBedding matters more than anything else on a rub rail install. Don't set aluminum straight against fiberglass. Trapped moisture between the two pits the anodizing and starts corrosion where you can't see it. Lay down a continuous bead of polyurethane marine sealant or a run of butyl tape behind the rail before you fasten it. That gives you a watertight, cushioned seat and lets you snug everything down without metal grinding on gelcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor fasteners, reach for stainless steel. Number 10 or 1\/4 inch stainless self-tapping screws hold well in this kind of aluminum section. Skip aluminum rivets on planing hulls, they tend to fail in shear when the boat's pounding through chop. Drill your pilot holes with cobalt bits and a little cutting fluid. Standard bits wander and tear the hole in aluminum, and a clean hole is what keeps the fastener seated and the rail from working loose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to plan before you start: a single 12 foot piece won't wrap an entire hull side on a bigger boat. On hulls over 30 feet you'll need a butt or scarf splice between lengths, so order enough to cover your run with a little overlap and think about where the joint lands so it stays tidy. This profile bends cleanly along gentle curves, but tight radii under about 4 feet want heat or a roller to avoid kinking the metal. Deburr and radius the cut ends too. Sharp corners left raw can crack under vibration around outboard brackets and transom corners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe last piece is corrosion protection at the fasteners. Aluminum and stainless in salt water want to react, and crevice corrosion under a fastener head is the usual failure. A dab of marine anti-seize compound on each screw isolates the two metals and keeps the joint sound for seasons. Do that once, up front, and you won't be chasing weeping fasteners later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo who's this for? Anyone rebuilding or upgrading a rub rail who wants aluminum's stiffness and a clean anodized finish rather than a soft vinyl insert. It's a straightforward, honest piece of gear. Measure your run, order your lengths, bed it right, and it'll protect your hull's edge for a long time on the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e12 ft length of solid aluminum rub rail, cut to cover a full run and splice for longer hulls\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1 in height and 1\/2 in thickness give a substantial section that absorbs dock and piling impact\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eClear anodized finish resists oxidation and keeps a bright, clean look on the gunwale\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eAluminum construction stays stiff and won't rot, crack, or go brittle in UV\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBends along gentle curves, radii under about 4 ft want heat or a roller\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTakes #10 or 1\/4 in stainless self-tapping screws for a secure hold on planing hulls\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSingle 12 ft piece, order multiple lengths and splice for boats over 30 ft\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks as a gunwale rub rail, edge guard, or stiffener behind flush-mounted gear\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized TACO METALS reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat boats is this TACO Metals rub rail meant for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt works as a gunwale rub rail on center consoles, workboats, and utility hulls. The stiff 1 inch by 1\/2 inch aluminum section also serves as an edge guard or a stiffener behind flush-mounted electronics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow should I bed the rail against the hull?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eRun a continuous bead of polyurethane marine sealant or butyl tape behind it. Setting bare aluminum straight against fiberglass traps moisture, pits the anodizing, and starts hidden corrosion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat fasteners work best?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNumber 10 or 1\/4 inch stainless self-tapping screws. Aluminum rivets tend to fail in shear on planing hulls that pound through chop, so stainless is the safer call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill one 12 foot piece cover my whole hull side?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNot on a larger boat. On hulls over 30 feet you'll need a butt or scarf splice between lengths, so order enough to cover your run and plan where the joint lands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I bend it around the bow curve?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt follows gentle curves cleanly. For tight radii under about 4 feet, use heat or a roller so the aluminum doesn't kink.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat's the best way to drill it?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eUse cobalt bits with a little cutting fluid. Standard bits wander and tear holes in aluminum, and a clean pilot hole keeps the fastener seated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I stop corrosion at the screws?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003ePut a dab of marine anti-seize compound on each stainless fastener. That isolates the aluminum from the stainless and prevents crevice corrosion under the screw heads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I need to finish the cut ends?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. Deburr and radius every cut end. Sharp raw corners can crack under vibration, especially near outboard brackets and transom corners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTACO Metals 12 ft Clear Anodized Aluminum Rub Rail\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTACO Metals\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eA11-0152TAL12D-A\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e630838080006\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eMaterial\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAluminum\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eFinish\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eClear Anodized\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eLength\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12 ft\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eHeight\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 in\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eThickness\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\/2 in\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eRail Style\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOverlap\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConfiguration\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSingle\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRub Rail\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What boats is this TACO Metals rub rail meant for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It works as a gunwale rub rail on center consoles, workboats, and utility hulls. The stiff 1 inch by 1\/2 inch aluminum section also serves as an edge guard or a stiffener behind flush-mounted electronics.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How should I bed the rail against the hull?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Run a continuous bead of polyurethane marine sealant or butyl tape behind it. Setting bare aluminum straight against fiberglass traps moisture, pits the anodizing, and starts hidden corrosion.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What fasteners work best?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Number 10 or 1\/4 inch stainless self-tapping screws. Aluminum rivets tend to fail in shear on planing hulls that pound through chop, so stainless is the safer call.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will one 12 foot piece cover my whole hull side?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Not on a larger boat. On hulls over 30 feet you'll need a butt or scarf splice between lengths, so order enough to cover your run and plan where the joint lands.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I bend it around the bow curve?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It follows gentle curves cleanly. 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That isolates the aluminum from the stainless and prevents crevice corrosion under the screw heads.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I need to finish the cut ends?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. Deburr and radius every cut end. Sharp raw corners can crack under vibration, especially near outboard brackets and transom corners.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"TACO Metals","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45057493336157,"sku":"2008371","price":121.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_cfa1cfbb-d441-42c4-8f4c-a72eb96130dd.jpg?v=1789487019","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/taco-metals-12-ft-aluminum-rub-rail-clear-anodized","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}