T-H Marine RFK-1-DP 2 Inch Rigging Flange Hose Kit

If you've ever fished a bundle of wires from the helm back to the transom, you know the mess. Loose cables chafe against fiberglass edges. Water finds its way into the bilge through an open hole. And the whole run looks unfinished. This T-H Marine kit fixes all of that. It's a rigging flange paired with 4 feet of 2 inch black polypropylene hose, sold as a single kit, and it turns a rough cable pass-through into something that looks like the factory did it.

Here's how it works. The flange mounts into a hole in your deck, console, or transom. The 2 inch hose slides through and seats into the flange, giving your wires a smooth, protected channel from one side of the boat to the other. The flange is internally threaded, so you can make rigging adjustments and keep the hose held tight without a pile of extra hardware. Feed your steering cable, throttle cable, or a bundle of electronics wiring through it, and everything stays contained.

The hose itself is polypropylene, not rubber. That matters. Polypropylene slides through existing rigging tubes easier than rubber does, and it's lighter and won't rot. It's flexible enough to follow a bend, but it likes a little support. On longer runs, back it up with a clamp or a tie about every 18 inches and it won't kink on you. If you're routing it through a tight transom corner on a smaller center console, the 2 inch material can feel stiff. A few seconds with a heat gun softens it right up and lets it take the bend without fighting you.

Four feet covers most single-station rigging jobs. Helm to splashwell, console to deck, that kind of thing. If you're wiring a dual-station boat or a longer run, you may want more length. The 2 inch hose splices cleanly, so you can add a matching section and keep going. Just don't overstuff it. Cramming too many cables into the 2 inch bore traps heat, and that's rough on sensitive electronics feeds. For heavier bundles, size up or run a second tube.

One trick worth knowing: you can add this rigging tube without disconnecting your existing cables. With careful feeding you can work the hose around connectors that are already terminated, which saves you from re-rigging the whole boat just to clean up one run. Take your time and it goes smoothly.

A couple of install notes from folks who rig boats for a living. The molded edges on single-piece fittings can be a little sharp, so knock them down with a deburring tool or drop a grommet in before you pull wire through. It keeps the flange from nicking insulation on the pull. And where the hose meets the helm plate or the transom, that joint is the spot most likely to weep. Seal it with butyl tape rather than silicone. Butyl stays flexible, doesn't crack, and pulls apart clean if you ever need to service the run.

The black polypropylene is UV stabilized, so it holds up to sun and spray better than plain plastic. On an open flybridge or a bare transom it'll still fade a bit after three or four seasons in hard sun, which is normal for any exposed plastic. Tucked under a gunwale or inside a rigging tube, it'll look new for years.

Who's this for? Anybody rigging or re-rigging a boat who wants a clean, protected cable path. Bass boats, center consoles, walkarounds, pontoons. If you're running new electronics, replacing a steering cable, or just tidying up a rat's nest of old wiring, this is the kit that makes it look right. It's not a structural through-hull and it's not meant for high-pressure plumbing. Think of it as the sleeve and collar that protect your rigging and finish the hole.

Bottom line, it's an inexpensive part that punches above its price. Clean pass-through, protected wires, no more open hole taking on spray. That's a good afternoon's upgrade.