{"product_id":"t-h-marine-on-off-on-toggle-switch-15a-12v-dc","title":"T-H Marine On-Off-On Toggle Switch | 15A 12V DC","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe T-H Marine On-Off-On toggle switch is one of those small parts that quietly runs half the boat. It's a 15 amp, 12 volt DC toggle with a plain black plastic lever, built for the accessory circuits you flip on and off every trip. Lights, blowers, aerators. Nothing fancy, just a switch that does its job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe T-H Marine On-Off-On toggle switch is one of those small parts that quietly runs half the boat. It's a 15 amp, 12 volt DC toggle with a plain black plastic lever, built for the accessory circuits you flip on and off every trip. Lights, blowers, aerators, that kind of load. Nothing fancy. Just a switch that does its job and gets out of the way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe part worth understanding here is the On-Off-On action. The lever sits in a center off position and throws two ways, up and down, each one making a separate circuit live. That's different from a plain on-off switch. With On-Off-On you can run two independent loads from one lever, say a pair of aerator pumps, or you can wire a single load so it's controlled from either direction. Flip it up for one circuit, center it to kill power, flip it down for the other. It's a flexible little switch once you know what you're working with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's rated at 15 amps on a 12 volt DC system. That covers most of the small accessory loads on a typical boat. A couple of courtesy lights, a livewell aerator, a bilge blower. Before you wire it in, add up the current draw of whatever you're switching and keep it comfortably under that 15 amp ceiling. And fuse the circuit. Always. A switch isn't a circuit protector, so put an inline fuse or a breaker sized at or below 15 amps on the feed side. That protects the wiring and the switch both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the water these end up everywhere. Deck and courtesy lights. Cabin lights. A livewell or baitwell aerator you cycle to keep bait lively. A bilge blower you run before you crank the engine. Anything 12 volt and under 15 amps that you want on a dedicated, manual switch rather than buried in an automatic circuit. The On-Off-On layout even lets you set up a two-pump arrangement off a single lever, which tidies up a crowded dash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInstallation is straightforward if you've wired a dash before. The switch drops into a panel or console cutout and the lever stands proud so you can find it by feel in the dark. It's non-lighted, so there's no backlight to wire in. If you want a switch you can spot at night, you'd pick an illuminated model instead, but plenty of boaters prefer a clean non-lit toggle for loads they don't need to see. Run your marine-grade wire to the terminals, crimp on properly sized connectors, and give every connection a shot of dielectric grease. Salt air finds bare copper fast. Use tinned wire if you have it, size your conductors to the load and the run length, and leave a little slack so the switch isn't pulling on its leads every time the hull flexes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA quick word on where to mount it. The spec on this one lists it as a black plastic, non-lighted toggle and nothing more, so we'd treat it as a standard panel switch rather than a fully sealed waterproof unit. Mount it somewhere that stays out of direct spray, behind a console or under a gunwale, and it'll give you years of service. Out in the weather, add a rubber boot over the lever for peace of mind. The black finish keeps it looking at home on just about any helm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho's this for? Anybody replacing a tired, corroded switch that's gone mushy, or anybody rigging up a new accessory circuit and wanting a simple, dependable toggle. It's an inexpensive part, but the wrong switch in a wet spot will leave you dead in the water at the worst time. This is a sensible, honest choice for 12 volt lights, blowers, and aerators. Wire it right, fuse it, and forget about it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eOn-Off-On action with a center off position and two live throws, so one lever can drive two independent circuits or a load from either direction\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRated 15 amps at 12 volt DC, enough headroom for courtesy lights, aerators, and bilge blowers\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eToggle lever design stands proud of the panel, easy to find and flip by feel in the dark\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNon-lighted build means no backlight wiring, just a clean, simple switch\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBlack plastic lever and housing blends into just about any helm or console\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRectangle body drops into a standard panel or console cutout\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSized for 12 volt lights, blowers, and aerators, the loads you cycle most every trip\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized T-H Marine Supplies reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat does On-Off-On mean on this switch?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe lever has three positions. Center is off, and it throws up and down, with each direction making a separate circuit live. You can use it to control two independent loads from one lever, or to run a single load controlled from either throw. Center always kills power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow much current can it handle?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's rated at 15 amps on a 12 volt DC system. Add up the draw of whatever you're switching and keep it comfortably under that ceiling. For bigger loads you'd want a relay driven by the switch instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this switch lighted?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo, it's a non-lighted toggle. There's no backlight to wire in. If you want a switch you can spot at night, you'd choose an illuminated model instead, but plenty of boaters prefer a clean non-lit toggle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat can I wire to it?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eT-H Marine lists it for lights, blowers, and aerators. In practice that covers deck and courtesy lights, cabin lights, a livewell aerator, and a bilge blower, basically any 12 volt accessory load under 15 amps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I still need a fuse if the switch is rated 15 amps?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. A switch isn't a circuit protector. Put an inline fuse or a breaker sized at or below 15 amps on the feed side to protect the wiring and the switch. Never rely on the switch rating alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs it waterproof?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe spec lists it as a black plastic, non-lighted toggle and nothing more, so we treat it as a standard panel switch rather than a fully sealed unit. Mount it out of direct spray, behind a console or under a gunwale, and add a rubber boot over the lever if it'll see weather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I run it on a 24 volt system?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's rated at 12 volt DC, so we'd keep it on 12 volt circuits. For a 24 volt system you'd want a switch rated for that voltage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat's the lever made of?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003ePlastic, in black. It's a straightforward toggle lever, not a metal one, which is why it carries a modest price for a dependable accessory switch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes it come with mounting hardware or wire terminals?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe listing doesn't specify any included hardware or terminals, so plan on supplying your own marine-grade wire, connectors, and any boot you want. Treat anything beyond the switch itself as sold separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eT-H Marine On-Off-On Toggle Switch\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eT-H Marine Supplies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBE-EL-51307-DP\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e733572180732\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSwitch Action\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOn-Off-On\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eVoltage Rating\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12 Volt DC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eAmperage Rating\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e15 Ampere\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSwitch Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eToggle Switch\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eShape\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRectangle\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eIllumination\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNon-Lighted\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eColor\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBlack\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eLever Material\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePlastic\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eRecommended Applications\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eLights, Blowers, Aerators\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What does On-Off-On mean on this switch?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"The lever has three positions. Center is off, and it throws up and down, with each direction making a separate circuit live. You can use it to control two independent loads from one lever, or to run a single load controlled from either throw. Center always kills power.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How much current can it handle?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's rated at 15 amps on a 12 volt DC system. Add up the draw of whatever you're switching and keep it comfortably under that ceiling. For bigger loads you'd want a relay driven by the switch instead.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this switch lighted?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No, it's a non-lighted toggle. There's no backlight to wire in. If you want a switch you can spot at night, you'd choose an illuminated model instead, but plenty of boaters prefer a clean non-lit toggle.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What can I wire to it?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"T-H Marine lists it for lights, blowers, and aerators. In practice that covers deck and courtesy lights, cabin lights, a livewell aerator, and a bilge blower, basically any 12 volt accessory load under 15 amps.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I still need a fuse if the switch is rated 15 amps?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. A switch isn't a circuit protector. Put an inline fuse or a breaker sized at or below 15 amps on the feed side to protect the wiring and the switch. Never rely on the switch rating alone.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is it waterproof?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"The spec lists it as a black plastic, non-lighted toggle and nothing more, so we treat it as a standard panel switch rather than a fully sealed unit. Mount it out of direct spray, behind a console or under a gunwale, and add a rubber boot over the lever if it'll see weather.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I run it on a 24 volt system?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's rated at 12 volt DC, so we'd keep it on 12 volt circuits. 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