T-H Marine Johnson/Evinrude Fuel Tank Connector 1/4 NPT

If your Johnson or Evinrude outboard is starving for fuel, cranking hard, or dying at idle, the culprit is often the small fitting where the fuel line meets the tank. This is that fitting. The T-H Marine Johnson/Evinrude tank connector is the male, 1/4 inch NPT half of the classic OMC quick-connect fuel system, and it threads right into your tank or fuel pickup so the fuel line's female socket can snap on and lock.

On these engines the connection splits into two halves. The tank side gets a male connector, and the fuel line gets a female connector that pushes on and seals against the male fitting. This part is the tank side. It's a slip-on, quick-connect design, so there are no tools needed to hook up or unhook the line at the dock. The male threads are 1/4 inch NPT, so they bite into the tapered port on your tank or pickup and seal on the threads themselves. Once it's in, you've got a clean, positive coupling that holds pressure and doesn't weep fuel around the base.

Why do these go bad? Time, mostly. The old fittings crack at the shoulder, the threads corrode, or the sealing surface gets chewed up after years of connecting and disconnecting the line. Ethanol in modern pump gas is hard on old parts, too. When the connector leaks, you get air in the fuel line, and that shows up as hard starting, stumbling under load, or an engine that quits the second you back off the throttle. Swapping in a fresh connector is one of the cheapest fixes in the whole fuel system, and it usually solves the problem for good.

This connector replaces OEM part numbers 502867 and 772681, so it drops into a wide range of Johnson and Evinrude outboards that used the OMC-style tank fitting. If your engine originally shipped with one of those numbers, this is a direct replacement, no adapters and no guesswork. It's a common wear item across many years of these motors, which is one reason we keep it stocked and ready to ship. Matching the original part number is the surest way to know it'll fit and seal the way the factory fitting did.

Installing it is straightforward. Thread the connector into a clean, dry port using a fuel-rated thread sealant or PTFE tape rated for gasoline on the NPT threads. Hand-tight first, then snug it with a wrench. Don't gorilla it. NPT seals on the taper, and over-torquing can crack the boss. Once it's in, push the fuel line's female connector on until it clicks, then give it a tug to confirm it's locked. Prime the bulb and check the base for any weeping before you head out.

A quick note on what you're getting. This is the male tank connector by itself. It doesn't include the fuel line, the female line-side connector, or the primer bulb, so if you're rebuilding the whole hose you'll want those separately. If you're only chasing a leak or a cracked tank fitting, this is the exact piece you need. Match the piece to the job and you don't pay for parts you don't need.

A lot of boaters keep one of these in the spares box, and it's cheap insurance. A fuel connector that fails on the water can leave you paddling, and there's no reason to risk a weekend over a small fitting. Toss one in with your spark plugs, shear pins, and fuses, and you'll be glad it's there.

It's a small part that does an important job. Get the fuel connection right and the rest of the motor can do what it's supposed to. If you're not sure whether your engine used the 502867 or 772681 fitting, check the old connector or your parts diagram before ordering, and reach out to our crew if you want a second set of eyes. We run these systems ourselves, and we're happy to help you get it right the first time.