Sierra MP39090 3-Position Magneto Ignition Switch
Sierra MP39090 3-Position Magneto Ignition Switch — Product description
The Sierra MP39090 is a universal 3-position magneto ignition switch that brings an older outboard or magneto-ignition inboard back to reliable key-start life. It ships with a 6-wire screw-terminal connection, a corrosion-resistant polyester housing, an anodized steel back-up nut, and a matched set of keys. A straightforward dash-mount replacement done right.
If you've got an older outboard or a magneto-ignition inboard and the key switch has gotten mushy, corroded, or just plain quit, the Sierra MP39090 is the kind of part that gets you back on the water without a lot of fuss. It's a universal 3-position magneto ignition switch, which means it's built for engines that fire the plugs off a magneto rather than a battery-fed ignition coil. Get that one distinction right and the rest of the job is straightforward.
Here's the thing a lot of first-time DIYers miss. A magneto switch doesn't work like the ignition switch in your truck. On a magneto system, the OFF position actually grounds the magneto stop circuit to kill the engine, and the RUN position removes that ground so the motor keeps firing. START is the momentary position that kicks the solenoid over. Drop a standard battery-ignition switch into a magneto motor and it won't shut the engine down the way you expect. So matching the switch to the ignition type matters, and this one's made for magneto setups.
The 6-wire connection is where the universal part earns its keep. You get six screw terminals that cover the magneto stop, ignition, start, and accessory circuits common to these systems, so you can adapt it to a wide range of older rigs instead of hunting down a motor-specific part number. Screw terminals also make for a clean, serviceable connection. One tip from folks who've wired a few of these: label your start and ignition leads before you pull the old switch, because crossed circuits are the number one reason a fresh switch seems dead on the first try.
Build quality is what you'd want for a part that lives on a console out in the weather. The housing is polyester, so it shrugs off the moisture and vibration that eat cheaper switches, and the back-up nut is anodized steel for a secure mount that stands up to corrosion. It's a dash-mount design that drops into a standard console cutout, so most installs come down to pulling the old unit, transferring your wires, and snugging it down.
It comes with a matched set of keys, so you're not stuck sourcing a blank and cutting one. Worth knowing up front: ignition keys aren't universal across brands, and a replacement means matching the tumbler, so do yourself a favor and stash the spare somewhere on the boat that isn't your pocket.
A few install notes from the dock. Saltwater is hard on any threaded hardware, so put a dab of anti-seize on the back-up nut threads before you tighten, or that anodized steel nut can seize up on you a few seasons down the road. Vibration will back a nut off over a season if you skip the lock washer, so add one and check it at your annual service. Snug the nut firmly, roughly 15 to 20 inch-pounds, and don't gorilla it. And if you're running long leads to the solenoid, keep your wire at 14 AWG or heavier so the starter engages clean without the solenoid chattering.
Who's this for? Repowers, restorations, and anybody replacing a tired switch on a magneto-fired outboard or inboard. What it isn't: a model-specific plug-and-play harness. You'll be transferring wires onto screw terminals rather than clicking into a factory connector. Confirm your engine actually runs a magneto ignition before you order, check your existing wire count, and you'll have a clean, reliable key-start again. Sierra builds these to meet or exceed the original equipment part, which is exactly what you want out of a switch you'd rather never think about again once it's in.
Key Features
- 3-position magneto operation (Off / Run / Start) grounds the magneto stop circuit to shut the engine down the way magneto systems expect
- 6-wire screw-terminal connection covers the magneto stop, ignition, start, and accessory circuits for flexible wiring
- Universal fitment adapts to a wide range of magneto-ignition outboard and inboard engines instead of one model-specific part
- Dash-mount design drops into a standard console cutout for a quick swap
- Polyester housing stands up to the moisture, salt, and vibration of a console mount
- Anodized steel back-up nut for a secure, corrosion-resistant mount
- Includes a matched set of keys, so there's no blank to source and cut
- Engineered to meet or exceed the original equipment switch it replaces
Why Buy from NVN Marine
- Authorized Sierra Marine reseller, full manufacturer warranty
- NMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs
- Same-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items
- NY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store
Technical specifications
| Title | Sierra MP39090 3-Position Magneto Ignition Switch |
|---|---|
| Brand | Sierra Marine |
| Manufacturer Part Number | MP39090 |
| UPC | 808282183561 |
| Switch Type | 3-Position Magneto Ignition |
| Positions | 3-Position (Off / Run / Start) |
| Ignition System | Magneto |
| Wire Connection | 6-Wire |
| Terminal Type | Screw Terminals |
| Mounting Style | Dash Mount |
| Housing Material | Polyester |
| Back-Up Nut Material | Anodized Steel |
| Keys Included | Yes |
| Fitment | Universal |
Frequently asked questions
What's the difference between a magneto ignition switch and a regular ignition switch?
A magneto switch grounds the magneto stop circuit in the OFF position to kill the engine, while a battery-ignition switch just cuts power to a coil. The MP39090 is built for magneto systems, so it shuts the motor down the way those engines expect. Using the wrong type is the usual reason an engine won't stop with the key.
Will this switch fit my boat?
It's a universal 3-position magneto switch with a 6-wire screw-terminal connection, so it adapts to a wide range of magneto-ignition outboards and inboards rather than one specific model. Before ordering, confirm your engine uses a magneto ignition and check that your existing switch uses a comparable wire setup.
Does it come with keys?
Yes, it ships with a matched set of keys. Keys aren't interchangeable between brands, and a replacement means matching the tumbler, so keep the spare stored safely on the boat rather than in your pocket.
What is the back-up nut and what's it made of?
The back-up nut is the threaded nut that secures the switch to the dash from behind. On this switch it's anodized steel for corrosion resistance. In saltwater, add a little anti-seize to the threads at install so it doesn't seize over time.
How many wires does it have and how do I connect them?
It uses a 6-wire connection through screw terminals that cover the magneto stop, ignition, start, and accessory circuits. Label your existing leads before removing the old switch so you don't cross the start and ignition wires.
Can I use this on both inboard and outboard engines?
Yes, as long as the engine uses a magneto ignition system. It works on both inboard and outboard magneto setups. On long runs to the solenoid, use 14 AWG or heavier wire so the starter engages cleanly without the solenoid chattering.
What's the housing made of?
The switch body is polyester, chosen to stand up to the moisture, salt, and vibration of a console mount. It's a dash-mount design that fits a standard cutout.
How do I keep it from failing in a saltwater environment?
Corrosion is the main enemy. Add anti-seize to the back-up nut threads, use a lock washer so vibration doesn't loosen the mount, and rinse the console area during regular washdowns. Most switch failures come from a corroded key tumbler, so keeping moisture out is what extends its life.
How tight should I make the mounting nut?
Snug it firmly but don't overdo it, roughly 15 to 20 inch-pounds, and add a lock washer. Check it at your annual service, since vibration can back it off over a season.
Is this a plug-and-play replacement?
Not a factory connector. It's a universal switch, so you'll transfer your wires onto its screw terminals rather than clicking into a molded plug. For most installs that's a quick job once you've labeled your leads.