Sierra 18-9883B-1 Outboard Rigging Hose Kit 2" x 5'

If you've ever popped the cowling on an outboard and stared at a bird's nest of fuel lines, control cables, and wiring running back to the transom, you already know why a rigging hose earns its keep. The Sierra 18-9883B-1 Outboard Rigging Hose Kit is the clean, simple way to gather all of that up and route it out of sight. It's a 5-foot length of 2-inch inside-diameter hose plus one UV-stabilized flange, and it does one job well. It hides and protects the cables and hoses running from your hull to your motor.

The hose is molded from a polyethylene co-polymer, so it stays flexible instead of going stiff and brittle. That matters out on the water. Cold mornings, hot afternoons, years of sun, and the material keeps bending without cracking. The 2-inch inside diameter gives you room to bundle a typical single-outboard run of fuel line, steering or control cables, and a wiring harness through one tidy tube. And the flange is UV-stabilized, so the part that sits out in the open at the transom holds up to sun exposure better than a bare fitting would.

Where this really shines is on rigs with a setback bracket or a jack plate. Anytime your motor sits back off the transom, you've got a gap where cables and hoses hang exposed, rubbing on the bracket and flapping at speed. Run them through this rigging hose and the whole run is contained, chafe-protected, and frankly a lot better looking. Center consoles, bay boats, flats skiffs, offshore rigs, they all benefit from getting that rigging squared away.

A few honest notes from folks who've installed these. The 5-foot length is generous for most setups, and it's common to trim six or eight inches off to get a clean fit on a bracket install. Keep the offcut. It makes a handy chafe guard for a bilge hose or a wiring pass-through down the road. When you're routing, try not to bend the hose tighter than about an 8-inch radius. The co-polymer is flexible, but a hard kink will crimp the tube and pinch whatever's inside it.

On the flange, pre-drill your screw holes rather than driving screws straight into it. Pre-drilling keeps the plastic from splitting at the fastener, and a couple of fender washers spread the load so the flange sits flat and doesn't crack under tension. On an aluminum transom, bed the flange and screws in butyl tape or a good marine sealant. That keeps water out of the holes and stops any weeping down the transom. It's a ten-minute step that saves you a headache later.

How much can you stuff through 2 inches? Enough for a standard single-engine rigging run. If you're pulling a lot of individual cables and you want to keep them separated for future service, a common trick is to run a length of split loom inside the hose so each cable has its own channel and you can pull one without disturbing the rest. That's optional, but it makes the next person who services the boat, maybe future you, a lot happier.

This is a straightforward, OEM-grade part from a company that supplies a lot of the marine engine world. Sierra builds parts to meet or exceed the original equipment they replace, so you're getting a rigging hose kit that's made for the harsh marine environment, not a generic hardware-store tube. What's in the box is simple. One 5-foot section of 2-inch black rigging hose and one UV-stabilized flange. You supply the fasteners, sealant, and about half an hour. First-time owner cleaning up a used boat or a seasoned rigger doing a repower, either way it's the same easy install and the same clean result. If your rigging is exposed, chafing, or just plain ugly, this is an inexpensive fix that tidies it up and protects it for seasons to come.