Seaview LTB-SF2 Light Bar for FLIR M-Series Thermal Cameras

The Seaview LTB-SF2 is the accessory that turns a single camera mount into a full electronics platform. It's a light bar that sits on top of your Seaview thermal camera mount, giving you clean, elevated real estate for the gear that usually ends up crammed onto the hardtop. Navigation lights, an all-round anchor light, a searchlight, a small satellite TV dome. All of it goes up high, out of the way, and clear of the camera below.

Here's the idea. A good thermal night-vision camera wants an unobstructed view. Put nav lights or a searchlight too close and you either block the camera's pan-and-tilt sweep or you wash out the picture with your own glare. The LTB-SF2 fixes that by lifting those accessories onto a bar that clears the camera dome, so everything has its own space and nothing fights for the same square foot of hardtop.

It's built the way Seaview builds everything. Aluminum, hardcoat anodized, then powder coated white. That two-step finish matters out on the water. Salt air eats cheap brackets, and a bar living at the highest, wettest point on the boat takes the worst of it. The anodizing under the powder coat gives you a second line of defense if the top layer ever gets nicked, so you're not watching corrosion creep out from a scratch after one season.

Fitment is specific, so read this part twice. The LTB-SF2 works with Seaview M2-series modular mounts only, and it requires an LTB top plate to attach. You pick the top that matches your mount. If you already run a Seaview camera mount ending in M2, this drops right in. If you don't, you'll want to sort the mount and top first, then add the bar. The M2 designation is the thing to check. It's part of the mount's model, and it's what tells you this bar and its top plate will line up with the pattern you already have on the boat.

Size-wise it's 21.45 inches wide and 38.2 inches tall, so it's a real structure, not a little tab. That width is what gives you room to spread accessories out. It'll clear a 20-inch satellite dome or anything smaller. A 24-inch dome is too big, so if you're running a large satdome, this isn't the bar for that setup.

One honest limitation. This isn't for fast, ocean-going boats. Anything up high adds weight and sway right where you feel it most, and pounding across a chop at speed puts loads on a tall bar it isn't meant to take. On a cruiser, a trawler, an express or a sailboat running at sensible speeds, it's right at home. On a center console built to run offshore at 50 knots, this taller bar just isn't the right tool.

Wiring is straightforward if you plan it. Run your light and accessory leads down through the mount and into the console the same way you'd route the camera cable. Use butyl tape and a quality marine sealant at any deck penetration, and give yourself a service loop so you can pull the bar later without fighting the harness. Heat-shrink and dielectric grease on the top-side connectors will save you a headache a couple seasons down the road, because that's exactly where water likes to find its way in.

So who's this for? Anyone running a Seaview M2 thermal camera mount who wants to add lighting or an antenna without drilling more holes in the hardtop or cluttering the view around the camera. It's a clean, corrosion-tough way to build up instead of out. Pick the matching LTB top, bolt it on, wire it in, and you've got one tidy platform doing the work of three brackets. Think of it as future-proofing the helm, too. Add the lights you need now, and the bar's still got room for the antenna or searchlight you'll want next season, no new holes required.