{"product_id":"sea-dog-2-0-awg-yellow-battery-cable-50ft-tinned-copper","title":"Sea-Dog 2\/0 AWG Yellow Battery Cable, 50 ft Tinned Copper Spool","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThis is Sea-Dog's 2\/0 AWG yellow battery cable on a 50 foot spool. Tinned copper strands, UL and ABYC certified, sold without terminals so you cut and crimp to your own runs. It's the negative leg for house banks, inverters, and windlass circuits where automotive wire just won't hold up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're wiring a house bank, an inverter, or a windlass, the cable is not the place to cut corners. Sea-Dog's 2\/0 AWG yellow battery cable is marine grade the whole way through. Every strand is tinned copper, so it fights the corrosion that eats bare copper alive in a damp bilge. It's UL listed and built to ABYC standards, which is exactly what you want carrying real amperage through a boat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe yellow insulation isn't a style choice. Under ABYC color code, yellow marks the DC negative, so this spool is meant to be the return leg that pairs with a red 2\/0 positive. Wire both legs the same gauge and you keep voltage drop even across the circuit. That matters on long runs where every tenth of a volt counts. Why 2\/0 in the first place? Because gauge is about heat, not just current. A cable that's undersized for the run gets warm, drops voltage, and works your batteries harder than it should. Step up to 2\/0 for high-draw circuits and you keep the losses down and the connections cool. On a big inverter or a 4D house bank, that's the difference between a system that holds voltage under load and one that sags every time the microwave kicks on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou get 50 feet on the spool, and it ships without terminals. That's on purpose. Battery and inverter runs are almost never a standard length, so you measure the boat, cut what you need, and crimp your own lugs. Most folks running Group 31 or 4D banks reach for 3\/8 inch or 1\/2 inch tinned copper lugs on the ends. One honest heads up: 2\/0 is a hydraulic-crimp job. A proper crimper with 2\/0 dies gives you a gas-tight connection that survives years of engine vibration. Hand tools tend to leave a loose lug that heats up and eventually fails, and a bad connection on a battery cable is not something you want to chase down offshore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere does 50 feet get you? On most trawlers it's plenty for the battery-to-inverter run with margin to spare. On a sailboat it covers a mast-base-to-panel pull or a long stern-to-bow windlass feed. Bigger catamarans with long cable paths can eat into that 50 feet quickly, so measure twice before you commit the spool to one circuit. The cable is stiff, which is normal for 2\/0 tinned copper. Route it and rough-fit the bends before you make your final connections, especially in a tight engine room where you're threading around motor mounts and stringers. Give yourself a little slack at each end too, so you're not fighting a dead-tight cable when you go to torque down a lug.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA few install notes we've learned the hard way. Seal your cut ends. Bare 2\/0 will wick water up the strands if you leave it open, and that moisture travels right under the insulation and starts corroding the copper you paid extra for. Adhesive-lined heat shrink over every terminated end fixes it. If the cable runs anywhere the sun hits it, cover it with split loom, because yellow jacket fades in UV over a few seasons even though the copper underneath is fine. And protect the circuit properly: an ANL or Class T fuse at each end, sized to the run, keeps you square with ABYC E-11. Label both ends while you're at it. Six months from now you'll thank yourself when you're tracing a circuit behind a panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the cable to buy when you want the job done once. It's genuine marine grade, not automotive wire relabeled for boats, and the difference shows up three or four seasons in when the cheap stuff has gone green at the lugs and this is still clean. If you're spec'ing a full battery bank rebuild, grab the matching red positive in the same gauge and you've got both legs handled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e2\/0 AWG gauge sized for high-amperage battery, inverter, and windlass circuits\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTinned copper conductor resists corrosion in wet bilge and salt-air conditions\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUL listed and built to ABYC standards for marine DC wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eYellow insulation marks the DC negative leg per ABYC color code\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e50 foot spool lets you cut runs to your exact boat length\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eShips without terminals so you crimp lugs to fit your bank and hardware\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFine-strand construction stays flexible enough to route around engine mounts\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Sea-Dog reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat gauge is this cable and what's it rated for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's 2\/0 AWG, one of the heavier battery-cable sizes. That's the gauge you reach for on house banks, inverter feeds, and windlass circuits where you're moving real amperage over a run of more than a few feet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhy is the insulation yellow?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eUnder ABYC color code, yellow marks the DC negative return. This spool is meant to be your negative leg, paired with a matching red 2\/0 positive. Wiring both legs the same gauge keeps voltage drop even across the circuit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes it come with terminals or lugs?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo, it ships without terminals. Battery and inverter runs are almost never a standard length, so you measure the boat, cut what you need, and crimp your own lugs. Most Group 31 and 4D banks use 3\/8 inch or 1\/2 inch tinned copper lugs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat do I need to crimp 2\/0 cable properly?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eA hydraulic crimper with 2\/0 dies. That gives you a gas-tight connection that holds up to engine vibration for years. Hand tools tend to leave a loose lug that heats up and eventually fails, so it's worth doing right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs 50 feet enough for my boat?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eOn most trawlers it covers the battery-to-inverter run with margin. On a sailboat it handles a mast-base-to-panel or windlass feed. Big catamarans with long cable paths can eat into 50 feet fast, so measure your run before committing the spool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat makes this different from automotive battery cable?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe tinned copper. Every strand is coated in tin, which fights the corrosion that turns bare copper green in a damp bilge. It's also UL listed and ABYC compliant, which automotive wire generally isn't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow should I finish the cut ends?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eSeal them. Bare 2\/0 wicks water up the strands if you leave it open, and that moisture corrodes the copper under the insulation. Adhesive-lined heat shrink over every terminated end keeps water out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes the yellow jacket hold up to sunlight?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe copper underneath is fine, but the yellow jacket can fade in UV over a few seasons. If the cable runs where the sun hits it, cover it with split loom to protect the finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow should I fuse a circuit built with this cable?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eProtect it with an ANL or Class T fuse sized to the run, at each end where required by your layout. That keeps the install square with ABYC E-11 for high-current DC circuits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog 2\/0 AWG Yellow Battery Cable, 50 Foot Spool\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8021031\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e035514802741\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWire Gauge\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\/0 AWG\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConductor\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTinned Copper\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eInsulation Color\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eYellow\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003ePolarity\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNegative\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eLength\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50 Feet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003ePackaging\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSpool\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTerminals\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWithout Terminal\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCertification\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUL \/ ABYC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eApplication\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarine Battery Cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eVendor Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSDG8021031\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What gauge is this cable and what's it rated for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's 2\/0 AWG, one of the heavier battery-cable sizes. That's the gauge you reach for on house banks, inverter feeds, and windlass circuits where you're moving real amperage over a run of more than a few feet.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Why is the insulation yellow?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Under ABYC color code, yellow marks the DC negative return. This spool is meant to be your negative leg, paired with a matching red 2\/0 positive. Wiring both legs the same gauge keeps voltage drop even across the circuit.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does it come with terminals or lugs?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No, it ships without terminals. Battery and inverter runs are almost never a standard length, so you measure the boat, cut what you need, and crimp your own lugs. Most Group 31 and 4D banks use 3\/8 inch or 1\/2 inch tinned copper lugs.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What do I need to crimp 2\/0 cable properly?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"A hydraulic crimper with 2\/0 dies. That gives you a gas-tight connection that holds up to engine vibration for years. Hand tools tend to leave a loose lug that heats up and eventually fails, so it's worth doing right.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is 50 feet enough for my boat?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"On most trawlers it covers the battery-to-inverter run with margin. On a sailboat it handles a mast-base-to-panel or windlass feed. Big catamarans with long cable paths can eat into 50 feet fast, so measure your run before committing the spool.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What makes this different from automotive battery cable?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"The tinned copper. Every strand is coated in tin, which fights the corrosion that turns bare copper green in a damp bilge. It's also UL listed and ABYC compliant, which automotive wire generally isn't.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How should I finish the cut ends?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Seal them. Bare 2\/0 wicks water up the strands if you leave it open, and that moisture corrodes the copper under the insulation. Adhesive-lined heat shrink over every terminated end keeps water out.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does the yellow jacket hold up to sunlight?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"The copper underneath is fine, but the yellow jacket can fade in UV over a few seasons. If the cable runs where the sun hits it, cover it with split loom to protect the finish.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How should I fuse a circuit built with this cable?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Protect it with an ANL or Class T fuse sized to the run, at each end where required by your layout. That keeps the install square with ABYC E-11 for high-current DC circuits.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Sea-Dog","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44998956580957,"sku":"2007708","price":319.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_2fffd0ff-1696-4e28-b2da-c50fb366617b.png?v=1788691634","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/sea-dog-2-0-awg-yellow-battery-cable-50ft-tinned-copper","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}