{"product_id":"sea-dog-10-2-awg-duplex-safety-wire-250ft-tinned","title":"Sea-Dog 10\/2 AWG Duplex Safety Wire, Red\/Yellow, 250ft Spool","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Sea-Dog 10\/2 AWG duplex safety wire is a 250-foot spool of flat, tinned-copper marine cable with red and yellow conductors. It's built for real DC circuits on the boat, windlasses, thrusters, and accessory panels, and it's UL and ABYC certified so it stands up to salt air and holds up to a survey.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sea-Dog 10\/2 AWG duplex safety wire gives you two 10-gauge stranded conductors, one red and one yellow, molded side by side in a flat PVC encasement and wound onto a 250-foot spool. It's the kind of wire you reach for when you're running a real DC circuit on a boat and you want it done once, done right, and never think about it again. Marine wire lives a hard life. Bilge water, salt air, vibration, heat coming off the engine. This cable is built for exactly that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart of it is tinned copper. Every strand is coated in tin before it's bundled, and that tin coating is what keeps corrosion from creeping up the conductor when moisture finds its way in. And on a boat, moisture always finds its way in. We've pulled apart untinned automotive wire on older boats that turned green and brittle a few inches back from the connector. Tinned copper doesn't do that. Boaters routinely report five years and more of service life when this stuff is loomed and connected properly, which is why tinned conductors are the standard the marine world settled on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTen gauge is a workhorse size. It comfortably carries the loads on 30-amp circuits, which puts a lot of common jobs squarely in its wheelhouse. Windlass feeds, bow thruster runs, accessory panels, hardtop and spreader lighting on bigger boats, high-draw pumps. The one thing to keep in mind is voltage drop. On runs past about 20 feet, a 12-volt circuit starts to lose meaningful voltage, so size your run for the distance, not just the amperage. If you're feeding a windlass or thruster way up in the bow of a 30-plus-footer, plan the gauge around the full round-trip length. For very high amp loads some folks parallel a second run, but for most 30-amp jobs a single 10\/2 run does the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe flat duplex format is what makes this a safety cable. Two conductors, red and yellow, share one jacket so your positive and negative always travel together and stay organized behind the panel. The red-and-yellow color code is the marine convention for DC safety wiring, which keeps the next person who opens up your electrical bay from guessing. Flat cable also lies down nicely against a stringer or bulkhead and pulls through tight chases more predictably than a round bundle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA word on the spool. Two hundred and fifty feet of 10-gauge duplex is heavy and it's stiff. If you're running a long hull length on your own, set the spool on a reel stand or grab a second set of hands, because a spool that's fighting you is how you end up with kinks. Kinks in the conductor are permanent, and they're exactly what you don't want buried behind a headliner. Pull it slow, keep tension even, and let the spool feed rather than yanking off coils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHere's what this wire is not for: AC shore power. It's a DC safety cable, full stop. Mixing it into a shore-power circuit is a code problem and a real safety issue, so keep your AC and DC wiring separate and correctly rated. On the DC side, protect the run the way it deserves. Pair it with properly sized thermal breakers, use adhesive-lined heat shrink connectors at every termination rather than crimp-only lugs, and give the cable chafe protection anywhere it passes near steering gear, engine beds, or a bulkhead pass-through. If any of the run sees sun on an open deck, get it inside split loom or conduit, because UV will chew on the outer jacket over a couple of seasons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is genuine marine-grade cable, UL and ABYC certified, so it meets the standards a surveyor and an insurance company want to see. Buy the 250-foot spool once and you've got enough on hand for a full rewire plus spares for the next project. It's honest wire that does its job quietly for years, and that's exactly what you want out of the stuff hiding behind your panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e10\/2 AWG duplex format: two 10-gauge stranded conductors carry the loads on 30-amp DC circuits like windlasses, thrusters, and accessory panels\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eTinned copper conductors resist salt-air and bilge corrosion, so terminations stay bright and reliable for years\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFlat safety-cable encasement keeps the red positive and yellow negative running together and organized behind the panel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRed and yellow marine color code makes DC polarity obvious to whoever opens the electrical bay next\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003ePVC insulation stands up to heat, oil, and moisture in engine spaces and bilges\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e250-foot spool covers a full rewire with plenty of spare left for the next job\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUL and ABYC certified, so it meets the standards surveyors and insurers expect to see\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eStranded construction stays flexible for pulling through tight chases and around bulkhead corners\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Sea-Dog reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat can I power with 10\/2 AWG duplex wire?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eTen gauge comfortably handles 30-amp DC circuits. That covers windlasses, bow thrusters, accessory panels, high-draw pumps, and hardtop or spreader lighting on larger boats. Just size the run for distance too, not only amperage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhy tinned copper instead of plain copper?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eTin coats every strand and blocks corrosion when moisture gets in, and on a boat it always does. Tinned conductors routinely last five years and more when loomed and terminated properly. Plain copper corrodes back from the connector and turns brittle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I use this for AC shore power?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. This is a DC safety cable only. Keep your AC shore-power wiring separate and correctly rated. Mixing a DC cable into an AC circuit is a code violation and a real safety problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat do the red and yellow conductors mean?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's the marine DC color convention. Red carries positive, yellow is the negative return. Using the safety color code keeps polarity clear for anyone who works on the boat later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow long a run can I make before voltage drop is a problem?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eOn 12-volt circuits, runs past about 20 feet start losing meaningful voltage. For a long bow-to-stern feed, size the gauge around the full round-trip length. For very high loads some installers parallel a second run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I handle a 250-foot spool during install?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's heavy and stiff. Set it on a reel stand or get a second person, feed it slowly, and keep even tension so you don't kink the conductor. Kinks are permanent once they're in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat connectors should I use with it?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eAdhesive-lined heat shrink connectors at every termination hold up far better than crimp-only lugs in salt air. Protect the circuit with properly sized thermal breakers while you're at it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes it need protection from sunlight?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, anywhere it runs on an open deck. UV degrades the outer jacket over a couple of seasons, so run exposed sections inside split loom or conduit and add chafe guard near steering gear and engine beds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this wire certified?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. It's UL and ABYC certified marine cable, which is what a surveyor and your insurance company want to see on any DC installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog 10\/2 AWG Duplex Safety Wire, Red\/Yellow, 250ft\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8010224\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e035514802307\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWire Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDuplex Safety Cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eGauge\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10\/2 AWG\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConductor\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStranded Tinned Copper\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eInsulation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePVC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eEncasement\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFlat\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eSpool Length\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e250 Feet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConductor Colors\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRed \/ Yellow\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCertification\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUL \/ ABYC Certified\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCurrent Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What can I power with 10\/2 AWG duplex wire?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Ten gauge comfortably handles 30-amp DC circuits. That covers windlasses, bow thrusters, accessory panels, high-draw pumps, and hardtop or spreader lighting on larger boats. Just size the run for distance too, not only amperage.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Why tinned copper instead of plain copper?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Tin coats every strand and blocks corrosion when moisture gets in, and on a boat it always does. Tinned conductors routinely last five years and more when loomed and terminated properly. Plain copper corrodes back from the connector and turns brittle.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I use this for AC shore power?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. This is a DC safety cable only. Keep your AC shore-power wiring separate and correctly rated. Mixing a DC cable into an AC circuit is a code violation and a real safety problem.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What do the red and yellow conductors mean?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's the marine DC color convention. Red carries positive, yellow is the negative return. Using the safety color code keeps polarity clear for anyone who works on the boat later.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How long a run can I make before voltage drop is a problem?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"On 12-volt circuits, runs past about 20 feet start losing meaningful voltage. For a long bow-to-stern feed, size the gauge around the full round-trip length. For very high loads some installers parallel a second run.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I handle a 250-foot spool during install?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's heavy and stiff. Set it on a reel stand or get a second person, feed it slowly, and keep even tension so you don't kink the conductor. Kinks are permanent once they're in.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What connectors should I use with it?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Adhesive-lined heat shrink connectors at every termination hold up far better than crimp-only lugs in salt air. Protect the circuit with properly sized thermal breakers while you're at it.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does it need protection from sunlight?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, anywhere it runs on an open deck. UV degrades the outer jacket over a couple of seasons, so run exposed sections inside split loom or conduit and add chafe guard near steering gear and engine beds.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this wire certified?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. It's UL and ABYC certified marine cable, which is what a surveyor and your insurance company want to see on any DC installation.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Sea-Dog","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44998827507805,"sku":"2007976","price":332.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_e8280eb3-573e-4ab1-a4df-731e93e4d10b.png?v=1788688599","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/sea-dog-10-2-awg-duplex-safety-wire-250ft-tinned","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}