{"product_id":"sea-dog-1-awg-yellow-battery-cable-100-ft-tinned-copper","title":"Sea-Dog 1 AWG Yellow Battery Cable, 100 ft Spool, Tinned Copper","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThis is Sea-Dog's 1 AWG battery cable on a full 100 foot spool, yellow jacket for the negative side, tinned copper all the way through. It's the wire you reach for on high-amp runs like windlasses, inverters, and house bank grounds. UL and ABYC certified, so it passes inspection and holds up to salt air.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is Sea-Dog's 1 AWG battery cable, sold on a full 100 foot spool with a yellow jacket for the negative side of your DC system. Every strand is tinned copper, and it carries UL and ABYC certification, so it's the real deal for marine high-amp wiring and not the automotive cable that shows up green and corroded a season later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhy tinned copper matters on a boat comes down to one thing: salt. Bare copper wicks moisture and oxidizes from the cut end inward, and once corrosion creeps up a battery cable you lose conductivity and gain heat right where you don't want it. The tin coating on every strand seals the copper against that, which is exactly why ABYC calls for it on any wire that lives on the water. You pay a little more up front and you get cable that still looks new when you pull a panel five years down the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe yellow jacket isn't just a color choice. Under the ABYC DC color code, yellow is the modern standard for the negative return, replacing plain black so nobody confuses a ground with a positive feed in a tight engine room. If you're wiring to code, or you just want the next person who opens the bilge to understand your work at a glance, running yellow on the negatives and red on the positives makes the whole system readable. We've traced enough mystery grounds on older boats to appreciate anyone who took the time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e1 AWG is heavy cable. It's sized for the big loads: windlass feeds, inverter and charger runs, bow thruster grounds, and house bank interconnects where you're moving serious current. The reason you go this big usually isn't the amperage rating alone, it's voltage drop over distance. A long run at 12 volts eats voltage fast, and an undersized ground will cook a windlass or trip an inverter on a hard pull. Measure your actual run length, double it for the round trip, and size to hold drop under three percent on critical circuits. On anything past about fifteen feet, most boaters find they need to step up, and 1 AWG covers a lot of those situations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis spool comes without terminals, which is the right way to buy bulk cable. You cut to the exact length you need and crimp your own lugs, so there's no wasted wire and no pre-made ends that don't fit your studs. A couple of things we've learned the hard way here. Use a proper hydraulic or hammer crimper on cable this size, not pliers, because a weak crimp on a high-amp run heats up and fails. Finish every lug with adhesive-lined heat shrink to lock out moisture. And seal any cut end the moment you make it, even if you're not terminating it that day, because a freshly cut spool end will wick water and start corroding before you get back to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFair warning: 1 AWG is stiff. It doesn't want to make tight bends, and threading it through a packed bilge conduit or around a cramped battery box takes some muscle and planning. Route it with gentle sweeps, support it every so often so it isn't hanging on the lugs, and think about your path before you start feeding cable. On a small outboard rig this gauge is usually overkill and hard to work with. It earns its keep on sailboat house banks, cruisers with inverters, and any boat running a windlass or thruster.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuying the 100 foot spool makes sense when you've got several runs to make or you want a length on hand for a full battery project. Pair this yellow negative with an equal or one-size-larger positive cable to keep your high-amp circuits balanced, and never undersize a ground to save a few dollars. The negative side carries the same current as the positive, and it's the one people skimp on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, this is honest marine cable. Tinned copper, correctly color coded, certified to the standards a surveyor or insurance inspector actually checks. Cut it, crimp it right, seal it up, and it'll carry current cleanly for the life of the boat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1 AWG (1 gauge) tinned copper conductor sized for high-amp runs like windlasses, inverters, and bow thrusters\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEvery strand tinned to seal out salt moisture and stop the end-to-end corrosion that kills bare copper on a boat\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eYellow jacket follows the ABYC DC color code for the negative return, so grounds never get confused with positives\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSold as a 100 foot spool without terminals, so you cut to length and crimp your own lugs with zero waste\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUL and ABYC certified, meets the standards a marine surveyor or insurance inspector checks\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eMarine-grade insulation built for the wet, oily conditions of the engine room and bilge\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHeavy 1 AWG copper holds voltage drop down on long DC runs where undersized cable would sag\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eWorks as the negative half of a full battery project, pair with matching positive cable for balanced high-amp circuits\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Sea-Dog reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat gauge is this cable and what's it for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's 1 AWG, a heavy battery cable sized for high-current DC runs. Think windlass feeds, inverter and charger circuits, bow thruster grounds, and house bank interconnects where you're moving serious amperage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhy tinned copper instead of bare copper?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eSalt. Bare copper wicks moisture and corrodes from the cut end inward, which costs you conductivity and creates heat. The tin coating on every strand seals the copper, which is why ABYC calls for tinned wire on boats. It's the difference between cable that lasts and cable you're replacing in a season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhy is the cable yellow?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYellow is the ABYC DC color code for the negative return. It replaced plain black so nobody mixes up a ground with a positive feed in a tight engine room. Run yellow on your negatives and red on your positives and the whole system stays readable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes it come with terminals or lugs?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. It ships without terminals as bulk cable on a 100 foot spool. You cut it to the exact length you need and crimp your own lugs, so there's no wasted wire and the ends fit your studs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow should I terminate it?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eUse a proper hydraulic or hammer crimper on cable this size, not pliers, since a weak crimp on a high-amp run heats up and fails. Finish each lug with adhesive-lined heat shrink to lock out moisture, and seal any cut end right away even if you're not terminating it that day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow long a run can I make with 100 feet?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThat depends on your circuit, not the spool. Measure your run, double it for the round trip, and size to keep voltage drop under about three percent on critical circuits. A 100 foot spool usually covers several runs on a typical boat, and 1 AWG is chosen when the distance would drop too much voltage in a smaller wire.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs 1 AWG the right size for my windlass or inverter?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt often is, but size it to your actual load and run length. High-amp gear over any real distance needs heavy cable to hold voltage. Check the amp draw of your windlass or inverter against the round-trip length of the run before you commit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I use this yellow cable for the positive side too?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eElectrically the cable is the same, but the ABYC code reserves yellow for the negative return. For positives you want red so the system reads correctly. Use this on your grounds and negatives, and run red cable for the positive feeds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs it UL and ABYC certified?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. This cable carries UL and ABYC certification, which is what a marine surveyor or insurance inspector looks for when they check your DC wiring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I need to seal the cut ends?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, and right away. A freshly cut spool end will wick water and start corroding before you get back to it. Seal or terminate every cut the moment you make it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog 1 AWG Yellow Negative Battery Cable, 100 Foot Spool, Tinned Copper, UL\/ABYC Certified\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8001032\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e035514800617\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWire Gauge\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 AWG (1 Gauge)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConductor Material\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTinned Copper\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eJacket Color\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eYellow\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003ePolarity\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNegative\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTerminals\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWithout Terminal (bulk cable)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eLength\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100 Foot Spool\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eInsulation\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarine-Grade\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCertifications\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUL \/ ABYC Certified\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarine Battery Cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What gauge is this cable and what's it for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's 1 AWG, a heavy battery cable sized for high-current DC runs. Think windlass feeds, inverter and charger circuits, bow thruster grounds, and house bank interconnects where you're moving serious amperage.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Why tinned copper instead of bare copper?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Salt. Bare copper wicks moisture and corrodes from the cut end inward, which costs you conductivity and creates heat. The tin coating on every strand seals the copper, which is why ABYC calls for tinned wire on boats. It's the difference between cable that lasts and cable you're replacing in a season.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Why is the cable yellow?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yellow is the ABYC DC color code for the negative return. It replaced plain black so nobody mixes up a ground with a positive feed in a tight engine room. Run yellow on your negatives and red on your positives and the whole system stays readable.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does it come with terminals or lugs?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. It ships without terminals as bulk cable on a 100 foot spool. You cut it to the exact length you need and crimp your own lugs, so there's no wasted wire and the ends fit your studs.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How should I terminate it?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Use a proper hydraulic or hammer crimper on cable this size, not pliers, since a weak crimp on a high-amp run heats up and fails. Finish each lug with adhesive-lined heat shrink to lock out moisture, and seal any cut end right away even if you're not terminating it that day.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How long a run can I make with 100 feet?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"That depends on your circuit, not the spool. Measure your run, double it for the round trip, and size to keep voltage drop under about three percent on critical circuits. A 100 foot spool usually covers several runs on a typical boat, and 1 AWG is chosen when the distance would drop too much voltage in a smaller wire.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is 1 AWG the right size for my windlass or inverter?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It often is, but size it to your actual load and run length. High-amp gear over any real distance needs heavy cable to hold voltage. Check the amp draw of your windlass or inverter against the round-trip length of the run before you commit.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I use this yellow cable for the positive side too?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Electrically the cable is the same, but the ABYC code reserves yellow for the negative return. For positives you want red so the system reads correctly. Use this on your grounds and negatives, and run red cable for the positive feeds.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is it UL and ABYC certified?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. This cable carries UL and ABYC certification, which is what a marine surveyor or insurance inspector looks for when they check your DC wiring.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I need to seal the cut ends?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, and right away. A freshly cut spool end will wick water and start corroding before you get back to it. Seal or terminate every cut the moment you make it.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Sea-Dog","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":44997481103453,"sku":"2007583","price":437.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_d6a0abfe-e7df-4def-9994-29755a07f2a6.png?v=1788641399","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/sea-dog-1-awg-yellow-battery-cable-100-ft-tinned-copper","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}