{"product_id":"sea-dog-1-0-awg-red-battery-cable-50ft-spool","title":"Sea-Dog 1\/0 AWG Red Battery Cable, 50-Foot Tinned Copper Spool","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Sea-Dog 1\/0 AWG Red Battery Cable is 50 feet of tinned marine-grade positive cable on a single spool. It ships without terminals, so you cut and lug every run to fit. UL listed and built to ABYC standards for the heavy DC jobs on your boat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sea-Dog 1\/0 AWG Red Battery Cable gives you 50 feet of genuine marine-grade primary cable on a single spool. It's the red positive leg, tinned copper all the way through, and it ships without terminals so you can cut and lug it to fit your own runs. This is the heavy stuff you reach for when a job calls for real current capacity and you'd rather not think about it corroding two seasons down the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne-aught cable is what you run when the load is serious. Think windlass feeds, inverter and charger cabling, house-bank interconnects, and the main battery-to-switch runs on bigger boats. 1\/0 AWG carries a lot of amps with low voltage drop, and that drop matters more than most folks expect once the run gets long. On a 40-footer, a windlass sitting 25 feet from the batteries will sag hard on undersized wire and stall right when you need it most. Measure the full round-trip length, size up, and you'll keep your gear happy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHere's why the tinned part matters. Plain copper cable belongs in a car, not a bilge. Salt air and condensation wick down into the strands, the copper goes green and brittle, and a corroded battery cable is both a resistance problem and a fire risk. Every strand in this cable is tin-plated, so it shrugs off the damp and holds its connections season after season. Tinning also keeps water from wicking up inside the insulation where you can't see the damage until a lug lets go. We've pulled apart enough corroded automotive wire on boats to never recommend anything but tinned for a DC run near saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause it ships without terminals, you're buying flexibility. Cut exactly the length your run needs, strip it back, and crimp on whatever lugs the install calls for. Do yourself a favor and use a proper hydraulic crimper for 1\/0 lugs. Hammer crimps and cheap tools give you a connection that looks fine on the bench and fails under load out on the water. And heat-shrink the ends right after you crimp them, because a freshly cut spool end will start to oxidize the moment you leave that bare copper open to the air.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the red positive conductor, so plan on a matching black length for your negative side to keep the wiring readable for whoever works on the boat next, including future you. And fuse it. A 1\/0 run feeding an inverter or a big house bank wants an ANL or Class T fuse right at the battery terminal. Skip that step and a cable that chafes through against a bulkhead can turn into a very bad day at the dock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRun it in split loom or conduit anywhere it passes through an engine compartment or a tight bilge where it can rub against metal. That's cheap insurance for a cable that's going to carry serious amperage. The 50-foot spool length is enough to handle a full battery-bank rewire with cable to spare, or to keep aboard for the upgrade jobs you already know are coming. It's the kind of gear you buy once and stop thinking about, which is the whole point of doing a job right the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cable is UL listed and built to ABYC standards, which is exactly what your surveyor and your insurance company want to see. That's not a marketing line. It's the difference between a clean survey and a page of corrections. This spool suits anyone rewiring a house bank, adding an inverter, or upgrading tired factory cabling that's gone stiff and discolored. If you only need a foot for a single lug, this is more cable than you'll use, so buy to your project. But for a real rewire, having the length on hand beats piecing it together every time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e1\/0 AWG (0 gauge) tinned copper conductor for high-current DC runs with low voltage drop\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e50-foot spool ships without terminals, so you cut and lug every run to exact length\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eRed insulation marks it as the positive conductor for clean, readable wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEvery strand tin-plated to resist salt-air corrosion in bilges and engine spaces\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUL listed and built to ABYC standards for survey and insurance compliance\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSized for windlass feeds, inverters, chargers, and house-bank interconnects\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBulk spool format keeps spare cable aboard for the upgrades you know are coming\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eSea-Dog Marine Wire quality built for long-term reliability on the water\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Sea-Dog reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes this cable come with terminals or lugs?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. It ships as a bare 50-foot spool without terminals so you can cut every run to exact length and crimp on the lugs your install needs. Use a hydraulic crimper for clean 1\/0 connections and heat-shrink the ends right after crimping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this the positive or negative cable?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThis is the red positive conductor. You'll want a matching black length for the negative side so your wiring stays readable for anyone who works on the boat later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat is 1\/0 AWG cable good for?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003e1\/0 (one-aught) is heavy DC cable for serious loads: windlass feeds, inverter and charger runs, house-bank interconnects, and main battery-to-switch cabling on bigger boats. It carries high amperage with low voltage drop over long runs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs the copper tinned?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. Every strand is tin-plated. Tinning resists the salt-air corrosion that turns plain copper green and brittle, and it keeps water from wicking up inside the insulation where you can't see the damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs it UL listed and ABYC compliant?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. The cable is UL listed and built to ABYC standards, which is what a surveyor and your insurance company want to see on a boat's DC system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow long is the spool?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's a 50-foot spool. That's enough to handle a full battery-bank rewire with cable to spare, or to keep aboard for upgrade jobs down the line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eCan I cut it to length?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes, that's the point of a bulk spool. Cut exactly what each run needs, strip it, and lug it. Heat-shrink the freshly cut end right away so the bare copper doesn't oxidize.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I need to fuse a 1\/0 run?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. A 1\/0 cable feeding an inverter or a large house bank should have an ANL or Class T fuse right at the battery terminal. It protects the run if the cable ever chafes through against a bulkhead or metal edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat crimper should I use?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eUse a proper hydraulic crimper for 1\/0 lugs. Hammer crimps and cheap tools make connections that look fine on the bench but heat up and fail under load out on the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I protect the cable where it passes through the engine compartment?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eRun it in split loom or conduit anywhere it can rub against metal, especially in tight bilges and engine spaces. That's cheap insurance against chafe on a cable carrying serious amperage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\/0 AWG Red Battery Cable, 50 Foot Spool\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8011021\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e035514802611\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWire Gauge\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\/0 AWG\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eConductor\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTinned Copper\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eInsulation Color\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRed\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003ePolarity\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePositive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eLength\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50 Feet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTerminals\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWithout Terminal (bulk spool)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarine Battery Cable\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCertifications\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUL Listed \/ ABYC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Line\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSea-Dog Marine Wire\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does this cable come with terminals or lugs?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. It ships as a bare 50-foot spool without terminals so you can cut every run to exact length and crimp on the lugs your install needs. Use a hydraulic crimper for clean 1\/0 connections and heat-shrink the ends right after crimping.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this the positive or negative cable?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"This is the red positive conductor. You'll want a matching black length for the negative side so your wiring stays readable for anyone who works on the boat later.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What is 1\/0 AWG cable good for?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"1\/0 (one-aught) is heavy DC cable for serious loads: windlass feeds, inverter and charger runs, house-bank interconnects, and main battery-to-switch cabling on bigger boats. It carries high amperage with low voltage drop over long runs.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is the copper tinned?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. Every strand is tin-plated. Tinning resists the salt-air corrosion that turns plain copper green and brittle, and it keeps water from wicking up inside the insulation where you can't see the damage.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is it UL listed and ABYC compliant?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. The cable is UL listed and built to ABYC standards, which is what a surveyor and your insurance company want to see on a boat's DC system.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How long is the spool?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's a 50-foot spool. That's enough to handle a full battery-bank rewire with cable to spare, or to keep aboard for upgrade jobs down the line.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Can I cut it to length?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes, that's the point of a bulk spool. Cut exactly what each run needs, strip it, and lug it. Heat-shrink the freshly cut end right away so the bare copper doesn't oxidize.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I need to fuse a 1\/0 run?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. A 1\/0 cable feeding an inverter or a large house bank should have an ANL or Class T fuse right at the battery terminal. It protects the run if the cable ever chafes through against a bulkhead or metal edge.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What crimper should I use?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Use a proper hydraulic crimper for 1\/0 lugs. Hammer crimps and cheap tools make connections that look fine on the bench but heat up and fail under load out on the water.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I protect the cable where it passes through the engine compartment?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Run it in split loom or conduit anywhere it can rub against metal, especially in tight bilges and engine spaces. That's cheap insurance against chafe on a cable carrying serious amperage.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Sea-Dog","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":45000224899165,"sku":"2007819","price":257.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_6d13797a-9332-41af-99c7-80a21177a41c.png?v=1788724308","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/sea-dog-1-0-awg-red-battery-cable-50ft-spool","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}