RIGID E-Series 10 Inch Infrared Combo LED Light Bar

Here's the thing about an infrared light bar. Point it at the water and you won't see a thing. That's the whole idea. The RIGID E-Series IR emits infrared light that's invisible to the naked eye, so the only way to see what it lights up is through night vision goggles or an IR-capable camera. Run it on the bow and your night vision setup sees the channel, the crab pots, the debris, and the shoreline lit up bright as day. Anyone watching from shore just sees a dark boat.

This is the 10 inch model, and it runs 20 infrared LEDs for 19,800 raw lumens. It's a combo beam, which means RIGID mixes spot and flood optics in the same bar. You get distance down the middle to reach out ahead of the boat and spread on the edges to fill in your peripheral vision. For running a channel at night or scanning a shoreline, that combo pattern is exactly what you want. One bar covers both jobs.

Why go infrared instead of a normal white spotlight? Two reasons. First, a white light kills your night vision the second it comes on, and it kills everyone else's too. Second, it announces exactly where you are. Infrared keeps you dark. Your goggles see everything, your eyes stay adapted to the night, and you're not lighting yourself up for miles. For patrol, security, and any kind of low-profile night running, that's the entire point.

RIGID builds the E-Series to survive real use. The housing is a hard-anodized black bar with a tinted polycarbonate CR-39 lens over the LEDs, and it uses a pressure equalizing vent so temperature swings don't pull moisture past the seals. That CR-39 lens is the same optical-grade material used in quality eyewear. It's tough, it resists yellowing, and the tint keeps the bar looking dark and low-key when it's off. Combined with the sealed housing, the optics stay clear season after season.

The electrical side is friendly. Draw is 3.28 amps at 46 watts, and it accepts a wide 9 to 36 volt input, so it'll run happily on a 12 volt or 24 volt boat without a converter. The mounting hardware is black anodized to match the housing and hold up against salt. Mounting is surface mount, so you're bolting it down to a hard surface like a bow pulpit, a hard top, or a bracket rather than sliding it into a channel.

Wiring is straightforward. Run it to a switched circuit at the helm, ideally its own switch so you can bring it up only when you're on the goggles. At 3.28 amps it's an easy load for most any accessory circuit. We'd put it on a dedicated fused feed with marine-grade wire and a weatherproof switch, same as any deck light. Nothing exotic here, and if you've wired a spreader light before you can wire this. Keep the run short and the wire sized right and you'll never think about it again.

So who's this for? Anyone running with night vision. Think night navigation in tight water, security and patrol work, night fishing or hunting where you don't want to spook anything, and search operations after dark. It's a premium piece, and it only makes sense if you've already got night vision goggles or an IR camera to pair with it. Without a night vision device, an infrared light does nothing you can see. But if you're already set up for the dark, this is the light that makes the night usable. And it's a genuine RIGID, so you're getting the same build quality that goes into their visible E-Series bars, just tuned for the infrared spectrum.