{"product_id":"marinco-6344el-brv-50a-125-250v-shore-power-inlet","title":"Marinco 6344EL-BRV 50A 125\/250V Shore Power Inlet","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Marinco 6344EL-BRV is a 50-amp, 125\/250-volt shore power inlet with a built-in manual power disconnect, so you can cut dockside power right at the hull instead of walking back to the panel. You get a contoured white face, a flame-resistant UL94V0 rear enclosure, and a hinged weather cap that keeps spray and grime off the pins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 6344EL-BRV is Marinco's 50-amp shore power inlet, rated for 125\/250 volts AC. That's the big split-phase service you'll find on larger cruisers, trawlers, and liveaboards that run two legs of 120 volts for air conditioning, a water heater, battery chargers, and a full galley all at once. If your boat has a 50-amp cord and a 50-amp double-pole breaker at the panel, this is the fitting that brings that power through the hull. Step down to a 30-amp inlet and you're constantly juggling loads. This one gives you the headroom to run the boat the way you would at home.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets this one apart is the manual power disconnect built right into the inlet. Flip the lever and you cut power at the hull, before it ever reaches your onboard panel. It's a handy safety step when you're plugging or unplugging a hot cord in the rain, or when you want to isolate the boat completely before working on AC wiring. One note from the field. The disconnect lever likes a little lubrication once a season. Boats that sit in warm engine rooms or hot climates can see the mechanism stiffen up if it's ignored, so a shot of dielectric grease on the annual checklist keeps it moving freely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rear enclosure is molded from flame-resistant UL94V0 plastic, the same self-extinguishing grade you want anywhere current lives behind a bulkhead. Up front, the white face is contoured to sit close to the hull, and a hinged cap covers the pins when nothing's plugged in. That cap matters more than it looks. It keeps rain, spray, and dock grime out of the contacts, which is where corrosion and arcing usually start. On open flybridges and exposed side decks, the cap and its hinge take a lot of sun, so give them a look each spring and don't be shy about replacing a tired lanyard with a length of paracord so you never lose the cap in a rolly anchorage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eInstallation is straightforward if you take your time on the cutout. The contoured housing mounts flush, but it needs a clean, accurate hole. Rush the template and you can warp the rear enclosure or break the seal against the hull, and a leaky inlet is the last thing you want feeding a 50-amp circuit. Bed the flange in a quality marine sealant, and if you've fought water intrusion behind an inlet before, a wrap of butyl tape under the flange is cheap insurance, especially on sailboats that spend real time heeled over. Check your wiring box depth before you commit too. The rear enclosure runs fairly shallow, and a few older boats with deep factory wiring boxes need an extension ring to make everything land right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the power side, pair it with a matched 50-amp cordset and twist-lock connector so the pins seat fully. A loose or mismatched connection is where you'll see arcing once you're pulling real current, 30 amps and up. Make sure the dock pedestal and your onboard side are both set up for 125\/250-volt split-phase, and confirm there's a 50-amp double-pole breaker upstream. Size that breaker right and you'll avoid the nuisance trips that come from running this service on the wrong protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo who's this for? Any boater stepping up to 50-amp service, or anyone replacing a weathered inlet on a mid-size to large cruiser. It's a workhorse fitting, not a gadget. Rig it in cleanly, keep the cap and lever happy with a few minutes of attention each season, and it'll quietly do its job for years. And because it's a genuine Marinco part, it drops right into the 50-amp shore power setup you're probably already running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e50-amp, 125\/250-volt AC rating handles full split-phase service, so you can run air conditioning, a water heater, and the galley at the same time\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eBuilt-in manual power disconnect lets you cut dockside power right at the hull before it reaches the panel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFlame-resistant UL94V0 rear enclosure is a self-extinguishing grade, the material you want behind a bulkhead\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eContoured white face mounts flush against the hull for a clean, low-profile look\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHinged weather cap keeps rain, spray, and dock grime off the pins when nothing's plugged in\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eGenuine Marinco part that pairs with matched 50-amp cordsets and twist-lock connectors\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eManufacturer part number 6344EL-BRV for a direct replacement of an existing 50-amp inlet\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Marinco reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat size cord and breaker does the 6344EL-BRV need?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's a 50-amp, 125\/250-volt inlet, so pair it with a matched 50-amp cordset and a 50-amp double-pole breaker upstream. Sizing the breaker correctly keeps you from nuisance trips on split-phase service.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat does the manual power disconnect do?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt lets you cut AC power right at the inlet, before it reaches your onboard panel. That's handy when you're plugging or unplugging a hot cord, or when you want to isolate the boat before working on AC wiring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs a weather cap included?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. The inlet ships with a hinged cap that covers the pins when nothing's plugged in, which keeps rain, spray, and grime out of the contacts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat is the rear enclosure made of?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eFlame-resistant UL94V0 plastic. That's a self-extinguishing grade, which is exactly what you want around live AC connections behind a bulkhead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill it fit my existing wiring box?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThe rear enclosure runs fairly shallow, so it fits most installations. Some older boats with deep factory wiring boxes may need an extension ring, so check your box depth before you cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I keep water from getting behind the inlet?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eBed the flange in a good marine sealant and take your time on the cutout so the housing sits flush. If you've had leaks before, a wrap of butyl tape under the flange adds cheap insurance, especially on sailboats that heel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDoes the disconnect lever need any maintenance?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eA little. A shot of dielectric grease once a season keeps the lever moving freely, which matters most on boats with warm engine rooms where the mechanism can stiffen up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat voltage does it support?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003e125\/250 volts AC. That's the split-phase service larger boats use to run two 120-volt legs at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat color is the inlet?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eWhite, with a contoured face that mounts flush against the hull for a low-profile look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarinco 6344EL-BRV 50 Amp 125\/250V Shore Power Inlet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMarinco\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6344EL-BRV\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e093344309236\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eAmperage\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50 Amp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eVoltage\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e125\/250 Volt AC\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eColor\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWhite\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eRear Enclosure Material\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFlame Resistant UL94V0 Plastic\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWeather Cap\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIncluded\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManual Power Disconnect\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eYes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eInlet Style\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eContoured\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eShore Power Inlet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What size cord and breaker does the 6344EL-BRV need?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's a 50-amp, 125\/250-volt inlet, so pair it with a matched 50-amp cordset and a 50-amp double-pole breaker upstream. Sizing the breaker correctly keeps you from nuisance trips on split-phase service.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What does the manual power disconnect do?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It lets you cut AC power right at the inlet, before it reaches your onboard panel. That's handy when you're plugging or unplugging a hot cord, or when you want to isolate the boat before working on AC wiring.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is a weather cap included?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. The inlet ships with a hinged cap that covers the pins when nothing's plugged in, which keeps rain, spray, and grime out of the contacts.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What is the rear enclosure made of?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Flame-resistant UL94V0 plastic. That's a self-extinguishing grade, which is exactly what you want around live AC connections behind a bulkhead.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will it fit my existing wiring box?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"The rear enclosure runs fairly shallow, so it fits most installations. Some older boats with deep factory wiring boxes may need an extension ring, so check your box depth before you cut.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I keep water from getting behind the inlet?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Bed the flange in a good marine sealant and take your time on the cutout so the housing sits flush. If you've had leaks before, a wrap of butyl tape under the flange adds cheap insurance, especially on sailboats that heel.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Does the disconnect lever need any maintenance?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"A little. A shot of dielectric grease once a season keeps the lever moving freely, which matters most on boats with warm engine rooms where the mechanism can stiffen up.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What voltage does it support?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"125\/250 volts AC. 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