JL Audio M-MCPV3-MC/LP MasterCraft Tower Speaker Mounts (Set of 2)

If you've added JL Audio ETXv2 or ETXv3 enclosed speakers to a MasterCraft, this is the fixture that puts them where they belong. The M-MCPV3-MC/LP is a low-profile mounting set built to attach those enclosures to the OEM tower position on MasterCraft boats from 2006 and up. It's a clean, factory-style fit instead of a generic clamp that never quite sits right.

You get a set of two mounts machined from aluminum, finished in clear anodizing, and they ship with stainless steel hardware. That's the whole kit for a pair of tower speakers. One mount per side, hardware in the box, and you're bolting speakers to the tower the same afternoon.

The "low-profile" part matters more than it sounds. On boats like the X-25 and X-30, a tall clamp fights the factory bimini and the tow rope every time the boat's loaded up for a set. These sit tight to the tube, so the speakers tuck in close and stay out of the way of the rider and the rope. If you run a bimini, you'll appreciate how little the mount sticks out.

There's a sound reason to mount speakers solidly, too. Tower speakers only throw sound back at the boat the way you want when they're locked down tight and aimed right. A mount that flexes or twists lets the speaker wander off-axis, and you lose punch out in the water behind the boat. Bolting the enclosures to a rigid aluminum fixture at the factory position keeps them pointed where the rider is and keeps the bass tight when you turn it up.

Fitment is specific, so let's be clear about it. The bracket is designed around the ETXv2 and ETXv3 speaker families. ETXv3 6.5-inch and 8-inch enclosures bolt right up. If you're mounting older ETXv2 speakers, check the back-plate hole pattern before you start so you know which holes line up. It's a two-minute check that saves a headache halfway through the job.

Installation is straightforward for anyone comfortable with a wrench. Each mount clamps to the tower tube and the speaker enclosure bolts to the mount with the supplied stainless hardware. No drilling into the tower, no cutting. Work one side at a time, snug everything down, and check that both speakers sit at the same height and angle before final tightening. Take your time on the first side and the second goes fast.

MasterCraft towers vary a little from year to year because of how they're welded, so on some boats you may need to file the clamp ears a touch for a dead-on fit. That's normal for a factory-position mount across that many model years, and it's better than a mount that's cut loose enough to rattle. Speaking of rattle, if you're on a newer tower and run the system hard, a thin rubber isolator between the clamp and the tube keeps things quiet at high RPM.

One install tip from folks who've done a bunch of these. The stainless hardware is good, but stainless threads can gall if you run them in dry. A dab of anti-seize or a drop of thread locker on assembly keeps the bolts turning smooth now and makes them come apart clean years down the road. Small thing, big payoff when it's time to pull the speakers for winter storage.

The clear anodized finish holds up well in freshwater lakes, which is where most MasterCraft boats live. If your boat sees brackish water, expect a little white oxidation on the aluminum after a couple of seasons. It's cosmetic, and a rinse after each outing slows it way down. Nothing about it affects how the mount holds.

So who's this for? Anybody running a MasterCraft from 2006 forward who wants ETX tower speakers mounted the right way, tight to the tower, clean, and out of the way. It's not a universal clamp for any tower and any speaker. It's the purpose-built fixture for this speaker line on this boat, and that's exactly why it fits and looks like it came from the factory.