Hella Pagid 355123012 Vented Cross-Drilled Brake Rotor (350mm)

The Hella Pagid 355123012 is a vented, cross-drilled brake rotor built for six-lug vehicles running a 112 millimeter bolt pattern. It measures 350 millimeters across, roughly 13.8 inches, with a 32 millimeter nominal thickness and a 67 millimeter center hub bore. If you're chasing better heat management and a cleaner look through the wheel, this is a solid replacement rotor from one of the oldest names in braking.

Let's talk about the vented and drilled design, because that's the whole point of a rotor like this. The internal vanes pull air through the rotor as the wheel spins, so heat from hard, repeated stops has somewhere to go. That matters more than people think. A rotor that can't shed heat fades, and brake fade is exactly the feeling you don't want on a long downhill or when you're loaded up and towing. The cross-drilling adds paths for gases and water to escape from between the pad and the disc. In the wet, that means the pad bites a hair sooner. Day to day, it also helps keep the face running a touch cooler.

The casting is one-piece gray cast iron, which is the material brake engineers keep coming back to for good reason. It's dimensionally stable under heat, it damps vibration well, and it machines to a true, flat face. One-piece construction keeps the whole thing simple and strong. There's no hat-to-ring hardware to loosen or corrode. Over the top goes a zinc coating in a gray finish that fights the surface rust that makes bare rotors look ugly within a week of the first rain. The coating won't stop the swept face from wearing bright where the pads ride, that's normal and expected, but the hat, edges, and cooling vanes stay protected.

Fitment comes down to the numbers. This rotor uses a 6 by 112 millimeter bolt pattern, a 67 millimeter hub bore, a 350 millimeter outside diameter, and a 32 millimeter thickness, with an overall height of 64.5 millimeters. Those are the figures that decide whether it bolts up and clears your caliper and carrier. Before you order, pull the numbers off your existing rotor or check them against your vehicle's brake specs. Bolt pattern and hub bore have to match exactly. Diameter and thickness have to match your caliper and bracket. If all five line up, you're good to go.

A few install notes from the shop. Rotors work as an axle set, so replace them in pairs, left and right together, even if only one looks worn. Fresh rotors deserve fresh pads, and worn pads on a new rotor will chatter and glaze. Clean the new rotor's face with brake cleaner before install, since there's a light protective film from the factory that you want off the friction surface. Torque the caliper bracket and the wheel to your vehicle's spec, then bed the brakes in properly with a series of moderate stops from speed to lay down an even transfer layer before you ever haul on them hard. Skip the bed-in and you invite uneven deposits and pedal pulsation down the road.

One honest word on cross-drilled rotors. The holes look great and they do help vent gas and water, but they also concentrate stress around each hole, so a drilled rotor isn't the pick for constant track abuse where thermal cycling is brutal. For street driving, daily commuting, hauling, and towing, that's a non-issue, and that's exactly where a rotor like this lives. Treat it right, bed it in, and don't ride the brakes down a long grade in too high a gear, and it'll give you long, quiet, fade-resistant service.

Who's this for? Anyone doing a straightforward rotor replacement on a six-lug, 112 millimeter vehicle who wants the vented-and-drilled setup with a corrosion-resistant finish. It's sold as a single rotor, so order two if you're doing the axle, which you should. And if you're not sure this is the right size for your setup, measure first or reach out. We'd rather help you confirm the fit than watch you guess.