{"product_id":"hella-marine-30a-12v-4-pin-relay-965400071","title":"Hella Marine 30A 12V 4-Pin Relay | 965400071","description":"\u003cp class=\"nvn-hero\"\u003eThe Hella Marine 965400071 is a 30-amp, 12-volt relay with four blade terminals, the quiet workhorse behind every well-wired accessory circuit. It lets a small helm switch control a high-current load like a bilge pump, horn, or light bank without cooking your dash wiring. Wire it in once and forget it's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-description\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHere's a little part that does a lot of quiet work on a boat. The Hella Marine 965400071 is a 30-amp, 12-volt relay with four blade terminals, and it's one of those pieces you wire in once and never think about again. A relay is really just an electrically operated switch. A small trigger current flips a much larger circuit on and off, which is exactly what you want when you're adding accessories to a boat that wasn't built for them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo why not just run everything through a dash switch? Because most panel switches aren't rated to carry the kind of current a pump, a horn, or a bank of lights pulls. Push 20 or 30 amps through an undersized switch and you get heat, voltage drop, and eventually a melted switch or a scorched connector. A relay solves that. You run the heavy power through the relay's contacts on short, fat wire, and you use a thin trigger wire to tell it when to close. The switch at your helm only ever sees a fraction of an amp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the water this thing earns its keep everywhere. Bilge pumps, washdown pumps, livewell pumps, electric horns, spreader and spotlight banks, blower fans, fuel pumps, and auxiliary LED bars are all good candidates. Anywhere you're switching a motor or a high-draw load from a small switch or from an accessory output that can't handle the current, a 30-amp relay belongs in the circuit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWiring it is straightforward once you know what the four blades do. Two of them are the coil, the control side that gets your trigger voltage and a ground. When the coil energizes, it pulls the contacts closed. The other two blades are the load side. One takes battery power in through a fuse, and the other sends switched power out to your accessory. With four terminals you've got a normally open, single-throw setup, meaning the load stays off until the coil is triggered. That covers the vast majority of accessory jobs on a boat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSize your wire and fuse to the load. At 12 volts a 30-amp circuit wants heavy conductor, usually around 10-gauge for the power runs, and it should always be fused close to the battery so the relay and the wiring are protected. The trigger side can be light wire since it carries almost nothing. Don't skip the fuse. The relay's 30-amp continuous rating is the ceiling, not a target, so leave yourself some margin and keep continuous loads comfortably under it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is Hella Marine, so the build is what you'd expect from a company that's been making marine electrical gear for decades. Their whole approach is fit-and-forget, and a relay is the purest example of that idea. Mount it in a dry, protected spot like inside a console or a dash cavity, keep the terminals clean and tight, and it'll switch reliably for years. The blade terminals accept standard push-on connectors, so you don't need anything special to wire it in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho's it for? Anyone adding power accessories to a boat, from a first-time owner wiring in a second bilge pump to a rigger building out a center console. It's a universal building block, not a boat-specific part, which is exactly why it's worth keeping a spare in the parts bin. If you're switching anything that draws real current, start here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne more reason boaters like relays. When something does eventually quit, swapping one is a two-minute job. Pull the four push-on connectors, note which blade went where, and slide the replacement on. There's no soldering and no special tool. That's a big part of why a 30-amp relay is such a common spare to carry on board. If an accessory stops working, the relay is one of the first and easiest things to rule out, either by swapping in a known-good unit or listening for the faint click of the coil when you trigger it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eKey Features\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"nvn-features\"\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e30-amp continuous rating at 12 volts handles pumps, horns, and light banks that would cook a dash switch\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eFour blade terminals accept standard push-on connectors for fast, solder-free wiring\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eNormally open single-throw design keeps the load off until the coil is triggered\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eLow-current coil lets a small helm switch control a high-current circuit\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eCompact mini-relay body fits inside a console, dash cavity, or accessory panel\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eHella Marine fit-and-forget build for long, reliable service on the water\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eUniversal design works for bilge pumps, washdown pumps, blowers, and auxiliary lighting\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003eEasy two-minute replacement makes it a smart spare to keep aboard\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-trust\"\u003e\n  \u003ch2\u003eWhy Buy from NVN Marine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n  \u003cul\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eAuthorized Hella Marine reseller, full manufacturer warranty\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eSame-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items\u003c\/li\u003e\n    \u003cli\u003eNY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently Asked Questions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"nvn-faq\"\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat does this relay actually do?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eIt's an electrically operated switch. A small trigger current energizes the coil, which closes a set of contacts and lets a much larger current flow to your accessory. That way a small helm switch can control a high-draw load like a pump or a light bank without carrying all that current itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat size wire should I use for 30 amps at 12 volts?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eFor the power runs feeding a 30-amp load, go with heavy conductor, usually around 10-gauge, and keep the runs as short as practical to limit voltage drop. The trigger wire on the coil side carries almost nothing, so light wire is fine there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat do terminals 85 and 86 do on a relay?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eOn a standard 4-pin relay, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil, the control side. One gets your switched trigger voltage and the other gets a ground. When both are connected the coil energizes and closes the contacts. The other two blades carry the actual load current.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eHow do I wire a 12-volt 4-pin relay?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eConnect the two coil terminals to your trigger switch and ground. Feed battery power through a fuse to the input contact, and run the output contact to your accessory. When you flip the trigger switch, the coil closes the contacts and power flows to the load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eIs this a normally open or normally closed relay?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eWith four terminals it's a normally open, single-throw relay. The load stays off until the coil is triggered, then the contacts close and power flows. That's the setup you want for the vast majority of accessory switching jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eDo I still need a fuse if I use a relay?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eYes. Always fuse the power side close to the battery. The relay switches the circuit, but it doesn't protect the wiring. A fuse sized to your load guards the relay and the cable against a short or an overload.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWill this work on a 24-volt system?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eNo. This is a 12-volt relay, so the coil is designed for a 12-volt trigger. Running it on 24 volts can overheat the coil. Use a relay rated for the voltage of your system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhere should I mount it on the boat?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003ePick a dry, protected spot such as inside a console, a dash cavity, or an accessory panel. Keep the blade terminals clean and the connectors tight, and the relay will switch reliably for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n  \u003cdetails\u003e\n    \u003csummary\u003eWhat's the part number and rating?\u003c\/summary\u003e\n    \u003cp\u003eThis is Hella Marine part number 965400071, rated for 30 amps continuous at 12 volts with four blade terminals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003c\/details\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eTechnical Specifications\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"nvn-specs\"\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTitle\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHella Marine 30A 12V 4-Pin Relay 965400071\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eBrand\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHella Marine\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eHella\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eManufacturer Part Number\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e965400071\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eUPC\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e760687173328\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eProduct Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRelay\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eCurrent Rating\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30 Amps Continuous\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eOperating Voltage\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12 Volt\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eContact Configuration\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSingle Pole Single Throw (SPST)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eContact State\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNormally Open\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eTerminal Type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBlade (push-on spade)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eNumber of Terminals\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cscript type=\"application\/ld+json\"\u003e\n{\n    \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n    \"@type\": \"FAQPage\",\n    \"mainEntity\": [\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What does this relay actually do?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"It's an electrically operated switch. A small trigger current energizes the coil, which closes a set of contacts and lets a much larger current flow to your accessory. That way a small helm switch can control a high-draw load like a pump or a light bank without carrying all that current itself.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What size wire should I use for 30 amps at 12 volts?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"For the power runs feeding a 30-amp load, go with heavy conductor, usually around 10-gauge, and keep the runs as short as practical to limit voltage drop. The trigger wire on the coil side carries almost nothing, so light wire is fine there.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What do terminals 85 and 86 do on a relay?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"On a standard 4-pin relay, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil, the control side. One gets your switched trigger voltage and the other gets a ground. When both are connected the coil energizes and closes the contacts. The other two blades carry the actual load current.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"How do I wire a 12-volt 4-pin relay?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Connect the two coil terminals to your trigger switch and ground. Feed battery power through a fuse to the input contact, and run the output contact to your accessory. When you flip the trigger switch, the coil closes the contacts and power flows to the load.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Is this a normally open or normally closed relay?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"With four terminals it's a normally open, single-throw relay. The load stays off until the coil is triggered, then the contacts close and power flows. That's the setup you want for the vast majority of accessory switching jobs.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Do I still need a fuse if I use a relay?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Yes. Always fuse the power side close to the battery. The relay switches the circuit, but it doesn't protect the wiring. A fuse sized to your load guards the relay and the cable against a short or an overload.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Will this work on a 24-volt system?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"No. This is a 12-volt relay, so the coil is designed for a 12-volt trigger. Running it on 24 volts can overheat the coil. Use a relay rated for the voltage of your system.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"Where should I mount it on the boat?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"Pick a dry, protected spot such as inside a console, a dash cavity, or an accessory panel. Keep the blade terminals clean and the connectors tight, and the relay will switch reliably for years.\"\n            }\n        },\n        {\n            \"@type\": \"Question\",\n            \"name\": \"What's the part number and rating?\",\n            \"acceptedAnswer\": {\n                \"@type\": \"Answer\",\n                \"text\": \"This is Hella Marine part number 965400071, rated for 30 amps continuous at 12 volts with four blade terminals.\"\n            }\n        }\n    ]\n}\n\u003c\/script\u003e\n","brand":"Hella Marine","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":67597758791773,"sku":"2010988","price":8.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0299\/7266\/0317\/files\/ImageServerAPI_d27b7140-0676-4acf-9c37-352e30787234.jpg?v=1790922513","url":"https:\/\/nvnmarine.com\/products\/hella-marine-30a-12v-4-pin-relay-965400071","provider":"NVN Marine","version":"1.0","type":"link"}