Go Power GP-DC-KIT3 DC Inverter Installation Kit with FBL-200 Fuse

If you've just bought a big inverter for your RV, van, or boat, you already know the inverter is only half the job. Getting current from the battery bank to the inverter without voltage drop, heat, or a fire risk is the other half. The Go Power GP-DC-KIT3 is the DC installation kit that handles that second half, and it comes pre-sized to Go Power's larger inverters so you're not standing in the parts aisle guessing at cable gauge.

This kit is built for two setups. Run it with a 1100 to 1800 watt inverter on a 12-volt system, or a 2000 to 3000 watt inverter on a 24-volt system. In both cases the current draw on the DC side is serious, and that's exactly why Go Power spec'd the kit the way they did.

Here's what's in the box. You get 10 feet of 2 AWG battery cable to make the positive and negative runs between your bank and the inverter. There's the FBL-200 fuse block that protects the positive cable and your whole DC system from a dead short. You get 1/2 inch cable clamps to secure the heavy cable and keep it off sharp edges, 11 inch cable ties to bundle and route the run, and a set of #10 by 3/4 inch screws to mount the fuse block and clamps. One box, one install, no surprises.

Why does the cable gauge matter so much? Because a high-output inverter can pull a lot of amps on the DC side, and thin wire turns that current into heat and lost voltage instead of clean AC power at the outlet. The 2 AWG cable in this kit is sized to keep the run cool and the voltage where it should be, as long as you keep the cable run short. Ten feet is the sweet spot. Mount your inverter as close to the battery bank as you reasonably can and you'll get the most out of it.

The fuse block is the part people skip, and it's the part that matters most. The FBL-200 goes on the positive cable, and you want it mounted close to the battery positive terminal, ideally within about a foot. That way, if the cable ever chafes through and shorts, the fuse blows before the wire does. It's a small step that protects a very expensive inverter and, more importantly, everything around it.

A few install notes from experience. The included #10 screws hold the fuse block and clamps fine in wood or a solid panel, but if you're mounting into something thin or soft, back them up so nothing works loose with vibration. Run your positive and negative cables together where you can, clamp them down every so often so they can't rub, and leave a little slack at the terminals. If you're on a 24-volt system, make sure the fuse you drop into the FBL-200 is rated for your system voltage.

One thing worth being clear about. This is a DC-side wiring kit, not the inverter itself and not the AC-side hookup. It connects your battery bank to the inverter's DC input. The AC output wiring, your transfer switch or shore-power setup, and the inverter's own mounting are separate jobs. Think of this kit as the heavy lifting between the battery and the inverter, the part that has to be done with proper gauge cable and real overcurrent protection.

Who's this kit for? Anyone installing a Go Power inverter in the covered wattage range who wants it done right the first time. It's the difference between an inverter that runs cool and reliable for years and one that nuisance-trips or runs warm because it was fed with undersized wire. If your inverter is larger than 1800 watts on 12 volts, or you need a cable run longer than 10 feet, step up to heavier cable and a bigger kit. But for the setups it covers, this is everything you need in one box.