Egis 472010 10A Red Blade Breaker for MT Series Blocks

If you've wired up an Egis MT Series block, you already know the appeal. One sealed, connectorized hub for your accessory circuits instead of a rat's nest of inline fuse holders. The 472010 is the 10-amp breaker that fills one of those positions. It's a blade-style unit, so it seats into the block the same way a blade fuse would, but instead of blowing and needing a replacement, it trips and resets.

That's the real difference between a breaker like this and a plain fuse. When a 10-amp circuit pulls too much current, say a pump stalls or a wire chafes through to ground, the breaker opens and kills power to that leg. No melted fuse, no digging through the glovebox for a spare at the worst possible moment. You find the fault, fix it, and push the breaker back in. It's manual reset, which is what you want on a boat. An auto-reset breaker would keep cycling power back onto a dead short, and that's how you cook wiring. Manual reset makes you deal with the problem before the circuit goes live again.

The red blades aren't just for looks. Blade color follows the same amp-rating code boaters already know from standard blade fuses, and red means 10 amps. So when you're staring at a populated MT block trying to remember which leg feeds the livewell pump, the color tells you the rating without pulling anything. It's a small thing that saves real time during a dockside troubleshoot.

Rated at 28 volts DC, the 472010 is happy on a 12-volt system or a 24-volt one. Ten amps is a sensible size for a lot of common loads. Nav lights, a cabin fan, a small bilge or livewell pump, a stereo head unit, or a cluster of USB and 12-volt outlets. Match the breaker to the wire and the load, not the other way around. If you're running close to 10 amps continuous, you'll want to be on 16-gauge wire at short runs or step up to 14-gauge as the run gets longer, in line with ABYC practice.

The MT Series blocks these breakers live in are sealed units built for life on the water, with stainless hardware and connectorized terminals that keep corrosion out of your connections. Running breakers in the block instead of scattered inline holders means every protected circuit lands in one spot. When something trips, you walk to one place and look, instead of chasing fuse holders zip-tied behind the dash.

Installing one is about as simple as marine wiring gets. With the block powered down, seat the breaker into its position until it's fully home, then land your load wire per the block's layout. There's nothing to calibrate and no polarity to fuss over on the breaker itself, though you'll of course keep your block's feed and grounds correct. Because it's part of the sealed block system, you're not adding another weatherproof fuse holder to find a home for, and that's one fewer failure point out where spray and humidity do their worst.

A quick word on what this isn't. It's not a main battery breaker or a high-amp panel breaker. Ten amps is a branch-circuit size, meant to protect a single accessory leg, not your whole house bank or a windlass. And it's not a stand-in for correctly sized wire. A breaker protects the wire from overheating, so the rating has to suit the conductor. Size it right and it'll sit quietly for years and only ever trip when something's genuinely wrong.

This listing is for a single 472010 breaker. If you're populating a fresh block or carrying spares in different ratings, order the amperages you actually need for each leg. Egis has been building marine and specialty-vehicle electrical gear for over 25 years, and this breaker is a representative piece of that. Simple, sealed-system friendly, and honest about what it does. If your MT block has an open 10-amp position, this is the part that fills it.