Dometic 3316348.900 RV Refrigerator Power / Control Module Kit

If your Dometic RV refrigerator has gone dark, won't switch between gas and electric, or quit cooling on both modes, the power control module is one of the first parts worth checking. This is the genuine Dometic 3316348.900 power and control module kit, and it ships with its protective cover. It's the board that manages how the fridge draws power and runs, so when it fails the whole refrigerator can act dead even though the cooling unit itself is fine.

These Dometic Americana absorption refrigerators run on LP gas and 120V AC power. The control module is what handles that dual-power operation and the temperature logic behind it. When it's healthy, you don't think about it. When it starts to go, you'll see the symptoms right at the control panel: no lights, no response, or a fridge that runs on one power source but not the other. Swapping the module is a common fix that saves you from replacing an entire refrigerator that's otherwise in good shape.

Fitment is broad. This kit is built for the Dometic DM2652, DM2662, DM2672, DM2682, DM2852, DM2862, DM2872, and DM2882. It also covers the DMA4061, DMA4064, DMA4067, DMA4068, DMA4081, DMA4084, and DMA4087. Add the DMH1072 and the RM2551 to that list. Before you order, pull the model tag off your fridge, usually inside the door or on the back panel, and match it against that list. If your model's on it, this is your part.

The kit includes the cover, so you're not hunting for a separate piece to close everything back up cleanly. That matters more than it sounds. A board left exposed behind the fridge collects dust and moisture, and the cover keeps the module protected where it lives.

Speaking of where it lives: on most of these models the power module sits behind the refrigerator, reachable through the exterior lower vent panel on the side of the rig. That's good news for anyone doing this in a campground with basic hand tools. You're not pulling the fridge out of the cabinet for a module swap on most installs. Kill the 120V power and shut off the LP supply first, every single time. Give the board a minute to discharge before you disconnect anything.

Who's this for? RV owners and techs troubleshooting a fridge that's stopped responding, and anyone keeping an older Americana-series unit alive instead of paying for a full replacement. If your fridge cools fine but the controls are flaky, the module is a smart, targeted repair. If the fridge won't get cold on gas or electric and you've already ruled out the cooling unit and the gas supply, this board moves to the top of the suspect list.

One honest note: a power module won't fix a refrigerator whose cooling unit has failed. If you've got an ammonia smell, yellow residue behind the fridge, or a cooling unit that's blocked, that's a different repair and a new board won't bring it back. Diagnose first. But when the cooling side checks out and the electronics are the problem, this is the part that gets you running again.

A quick word on buying the right one the first time. Dometic uses different power modules across its refrigerator lines, and they aren't interchangeable. The 3316348.900 is specific to the models listed above, so don't assume a board from another Dometic fridge will drop in. Matching the part number to your model tag is the whole game here. Get that right and the install is straightforward.

This is a genuine Dometic component, part number 3316348.900, not a generic substitute. You get the fit, the connector layout, and the operating behavior the refrigerator was designed around. Order it, match your model, and get your fridge, and your cold drinks, back on the road.