Camco PowerGrip 55252 50-Amp 14-50P Replacement Plug

When the plug end on your 50-amp shore power cord gets scorched, cracked, or the prongs start to pit, you don't have to buy a whole new cord. This Camco PowerGrip replacement plug lets you cut off the damaged male end and wire on a fresh one. It's the NEMA 14-50P configuration, the standard 50-amp connector you plug into the power pedestal at the dock or the post at the campground.

This is the male plug, the end that goes into the shore power receptacle. If yours is the piece that's been arcing or won't seat cleanly anymore, this is your fix. It ships bulk, which just means it comes as the bare plug without retail packaging or a printed instruction sheet. You supply the cord and do the wiring. All you really need is wire strippers, a screwdriver, and a cord rated for the job.

The PowerGrip handle is the reason to pick this one. Fifty-amp plugs are big and stiff, and pulling one out of a tight pedestal in the rain with cold hands is no fun. The molded handle gives you something real to grab and twist, so you're not yanking on the cord jacket to break the connection. That handle also takes the strain off the wire terminations inside, which is exactly where a plug tends to fail over time.

Electrically it's rated for 125/250 volts and up to 12,500 watts, the full 50-amp service you get at most modern marinas and RV parks. The body is molded plastic in bright yellow, so it's easy to spot on a dark dock or under the rig at night.

It's built to match Camco's Power Grip line of 50-amp cords, so if you're already running their shore power gear the fit and feel carry right over. Even on a generic 50-amp cord, as long as it's the proper gauge, this plug terminates cleanly.

A quick word on the NEMA 14-50P standard. It's a four-prong, 50-amp, 125/250-volt configuration with two hots, a neutral, and a ground. It's the same plug whether you're at a marine pedestal or a campground post, which is why one part covers both worlds. If your existing cord already terminates in a 14-50 and the plug is the only thing that's failed, this drops right in.

Installation is straightforward if you're comfortable with basic wiring. You'll strip the conductors on your cord, land them on the correct terminals, and snug down the set screws. Take your time here. A loose termination is the number one cause of a melted plug, so make sure every screw is tight and the strain relief clamps on the jacket, not the wires. This plug fits standard heavy-gauge shore power cord, typically 6-gauge for a 50-amp run. Match it to cord that's actually rated for the load.

Out on the water, do yourself a favor and hit the pins with a little dielectric grease before you close it up. Salt air is hard on copper, and a thin film keeps corrosion off the contacts so you get a clean connection season after season. It's a two-minute step that saves you a lot of grief later.

One thing worth checking before you order. If your cord is warm along its whole length, not just at the plug, or the breaker keeps tripping under load, the plug may not be your only problem. A damaged plug is an easy fix. A cord that's been overheated internally should be retired. Replacing the end on a cord that's otherwise sound is smart. Patching a cord that's cooked isn't worth the risk with 50 amps behind it.

Who's this for? Boaters and RVers running 50-amp service who've got a good cord with a bad end. Marina liveaboards. Anyone who's tired of a plug that gets warm or drops power when you wiggle it. What it's not: it's not a complete power cord, and it's not the female connector that plugs into your boat or coach inlet. This is the male plug end only. Wire it on right and it'll outlast the cord it's attached to.