Camco 55283 PowerGrip 30A TT-30P Replacement Plug

If the plug end on your Camco PowerGrip shore power cord has gotten cracked, melted, or just plain worn out, you don't have to toss the whole cord. This is the factory replacement plug for Camco PowerGrip 30 amp cords, and it gets you back to shore power without buying a brand new cord. It's the TT-30P male plug, the standard three-prong 30 amp connector you plug into the power pedestal at the campground or the shore power inlet at the dock.

Here's the thing about shore power cords. The plug end takes all the abuse. You yank it out of a tight inlet, you drag it across the dock, it bakes in the sun all season, and eventually the blades loosen or the housing cracks. We've seen plenty of otherwise good cords with 20 feet of perfect wire and one bad plug. This part fixes exactly that problem. You cut off the damaged end, strip the wire, and wire in this new plug. The cord's good as new for a fraction of the cost of replacing it.

What sets the PowerGrip line apart is that molded handle built right into the plug head. Anyone who's fought to unplug a cord from a stiff, weathered inlet knows why that matters. You grip the handle and pull straight back instead of hauling on the cord itself. That's easier on your hands and, more important, easier on the wire. Pulling on the cord is what loosens terminals and starts the whole failure cycle over again. The handle also gives you a solid spot to grab in the dark or with wet hands.

This plug works on both RV and marine 30 amp systems, because the TT-30 configuration is the same on both. A 30 amp travel trailer, a fifth wheel, a pontoon boat, a cabin cruiser with a 30 amp inlet. Same plug. If your existing PowerGrip cord already has the matching connector on the other end, this replacement plug drops right in with no adapters needed. Just confirm your cord is a 30 amp, 10 gauge cord, which is what these plugs are built to accept.

A quick word on wiring it right, because this is a field-wired plug and the install matters. Strip the wire clean without nicking the copper strands. A nicked conductor runs hotter under a 30 amp load, and heat is what kills these connections. Get all the strands under the screw terminal, tighten firmly, and make sure no stray wires bridge between terminals. It's a ten minute job with a screwdriver and a wire stripper. And if you're not comfortable working with AC wiring, have an electrician or your marina tech do it. Shore power is 120 volt AC and deserves respect.

One more tip from years of doing this: put a dab of dielectric grease on the blades before you first plug it in. The number one long-term failure on any shore power plug is corrosion at the blade contacts, especially in salt air. A little grease keeps the contacts clean and conducting. Do that and this plug will outlast the rest of the cord.

The yellow housing isn't just for looks, either. It's easy to spot when the cord's coiled in a locker or a storage bay, and it stands out on a dim dock at night. Like any outdoor plastic it'll fade some over a few hard seasons in strong sun, but the plug keeps doing its job the whole time. For the price of one part versus a whole new cord, this is one of the easier calls in RV and boat maintenance. Keep one in the spares bin and you're never stranded without power at the slip.