Camco 36133 RV Blow Out Plug for Winterizing
Camco 36133 RV Blow Out Plug for Winterizing — Product description
The Camco 36133 is a black plastic blow out plug that threads into your RV's city water inlet so you can clear the fresh water lines with an air compressor before winter. The built-in Schrader valve takes any standard air chuck, the same fitting as a tire. It's the simple, reusable tool that keeps a hard freeze from cracking your plumbing.
Winter sneaks up on every RV owner, and the fresh water sitting in your plumbing is the part that pays the price. The Camco 36133 is a black plastic blow out plug that threads into your RV's city water inlet and gives you a clean way to push every last bit of that water out with an air compressor. It's a small part. But it's the difference between a quiet spring and a pile of cracked fittings.
Here's what's going on inside those lines. Water expands when it freezes, and your PEX runs, your pump, the faucet bodies, and the low spots under the floor don't have anywhere to give. One hard overnight freeze is all it takes to split a line or crack a valve. The blow out method clears the water before that can happen, and this plug is the fitting that makes the method work on almost any rig.
The business end is a Schrader valve, the same valve you'll find on a tire. That means you can hook up the air chuck you already own. Screw the plug into the city water inlet on the side of your trailer or motorhome, snap your compressor line onto the Schrader valve, and you're ready to move air through the whole fresh water system.
Using it is straightforward. Drain the fresh tank and the water heater first, and bypass the heater if you've got a bypass kit. Open every faucet, the shower, and the outside spray port one at a time. Thread the 36133 into the city water inlet, connect your compressor, and let the air chase the water out of each fixture until it runs dry and you hear nothing but air. Don't forget the toilet, the galley, and both the hot and cold sides.
Go easy on the pressure. You're clearing lines, not pressure testing them, so keep the regulator down around 30 to 40 psi. A gauge on the line helps you keep an eye on it. More than that and you risk popping a fitting or stressing a faucet cartridge, which defeats the whole point. Low and steady does the job.
A lot of folks follow the blow out with a little RV antifreeze poured into the drains and traps, and that's a smart combination. Blowing the lines clear first means the antifreeze isn't getting diluted by leftover water, so it actually protects down to its rated temperature. Do both and you've covered the lines and the traps.
Timing matters as much as technique. You want to winterize before the first hard freeze of the season, not after you've already had a cold snap. Watch the forecast, and once overnight lows start dipping toward freezing, set aside an afternoon. It's a lot less stressful to do it early than to wonder whether that 28 degree night already got to your pipes.
This is the right tool for anybody who stores a travel trailer, fifth wheel, or motorhome through a cold season and would rather spend twenty minutes with a compressor than replace plumbing in April. The plastic body is light, won't corrode sitting in a bin all summer, and holds up year after year. Toss it in your winterizing kit with your antifreeze and your water heater wrench and you'll know right where it is next fall.
One thing to keep straight. The 36133 is the fitting, not the air source. You'll supply your own compressor, and any small pancake or portable unit with a standard chuck will do. It's built for RV fresh water systems and the standard city water inlet, so it's not a boat or pool fitting. For winterizing an RV, though, it's about as simple as this job gets.
Key Features
- Schrader valve connection accepts any standard air compressor chuck, the same fitting you'd use on a tire
- Threads into the standard RV city water inlet for a direct connection with no adapters
- Clears water from the fresh water lines before winter to prevent cracked pipes and fittings
- Plastic construction stays light and won't corrode sitting in storage between seasons
- Works with most air compressors, including small pancake and portable units
- Reusable year after year as part of your RV winterizing kit
- Black finish, sold as a single plug
Why Buy from NVN Marine
- Authorized Camco reseller, full manufacturer warranty
- NMEA member and ABYC certified, advice from real boat techs
- Same-day shipping before 3 PM ET on in-stock items
- NY headquarters and Fort Lauderdale flagship retail store
Technical specifications
| Title | Camco 36133 RV Blow Out Plug with Schrader Valve |
|---|---|
| Brand | Camco |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 36133 |
| UPC | 014717361330 |
| Color | Black |
| Material | Plastic |
| Valve Type | Schrader Valve |
| Connection | RV City Water / Fresh Water Inlet |
| Compressor Compatibility | Works with most air compressors |
| Application | RV fresh water line winterization |
| Quantity | Single |
| Product Type | Blow Out Plug |
Frequently asked questions
What does the Camco 36133 blow out plug do?
It clears leftover water out of your RV's fresh water lines before winter. You thread it into the city water inlet, hook up an air compressor to the built-in Schrader valve, and blow the water out so it can't freeze and crack your plumbing.
How do I use it to winterize my RV?
Drain the fresh tank and water heater, bypass the heater if you can, and open all the faucets one at a time. Screw the plug into the city water inlet, connect your compressor to the Schrader valve, and let the air push the water out of each fixture until only air comes through. Hit the hot and cold sides, the shower, the toilet, and any outside spray port.
What kind of air compressor do I need?
Almost any small compressor works. A pancake or portable unit with a standard tire chuck has plenty of air for this job. You're not after high volume, just enough steady pressure to walk the water out of the lines.
What PSI should I use to blow out my RV water lines?
Keep it low, somewhere around 30 to 40 psi. You're clearing the lines, not pressure testing them. Too much pressure can pop a fitting or damage a faucet cartridge, so dial the regulator down and take your time.
Do I leave the faucets open while blowing out the lines?
Yes. Open each faucet, valve, and drain so the air has somewhere to go. Work through them one at a time, hot and cold, until each one blows dry. Leaving them open also lets any last bit of water escape instead of getting trapped.
Do I still need RV antifreeze if I blow out the lines?
The blow out clears the supply lines, and a lot of owners still pour a little RV antifreeze into the drains and traps afterward. Clearing the water first keeps the antifreeze from getting diluted, so it protects to its rated temperature. The two methods work well together.
At what temperature do RV water pipes freeze?
Water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, but it usually takes a sustained freeze rather than a brief dip for the water inside your RV lines to freeze solid. The safe move is to winterize before the first hard freeze instead of waiting to find out.
Will it fit my RV's water inlet?
It's made for the standard RV city water inlet you'll find on travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes, so it threads right in on most rigs. It's a fresh water system fitting, not a boat or pool part.
Can I reuse the plug every year?
Yes. It's built to last and there's nothing to wear out, so it lives in your winterizing kit and comes back out every fall. Rinse it off, let it dry, and store it with your antifreeze.
