Coleman 1468A3069 Fan Motor Package for 6000 & 8000 Series RV AC

The Coleman 1468A3069 is the OEM fan motor package for 6000 and 8000 Series Coleman-Mach rooftop air conditioners. It's the same dual-shaft motor that came from the factory, so it turns both fan wheels at once, the evaporator blower that pushes cold air down into the coach and the condenser fan that throws heat off the roof. When your rooftop unit hums and the compressor kicks on but almost no air comes out the ceiling, a tired or seized fan motor is usually the reason. This is the part that fixes it.

It's a genuine Coleman part, not a rewound or generic aftermarket substitute, which matters on a rooftop A/C. The motor is balanced and speed-matched to the original fan wheels, so you don't pick up new vibration or a rattly roof after the swap. It runs on 115V, 60Hz power, draws 3.4 amps, and puts out 1/3 horsepower. It's a two-speed motor, spinning 1675 RPM on high and 1080 RPM on low, which is what lets your thermostat step the fan between full cool and a quieter setting.

Physically it's a compact unit, a 5 inch diameter body that's 4-1/8 inches thick, with a shaft coming out both ends to carry the two fan wheels. That's the standard footprint for the 6000 and 8000 platform, so it drops into the original motor mount and bracket without you having to modify anything.

Fitment is wide. This one motor package covers a long run of Coleman models: 6797, 6799, 8332, 8333, 8335, 8433, 8535, 45203, 45253, 45263, 48004, 48014, 48054, 48064, 48203, 48204, 48213, 48253, 48254, 48263, and 48264. If your discontinued rooftop unit's model number is on that list, this is the correct replacement motor. Coleman rolled a lot of trim and cover changes across those years, but the internal fan motor stayed common, which is why a single part number spans so many units.

A quick word on how these fail. Rooftop fan motors live a hard life. They sit out in the sun and weather, run for hours in summer heat, and spin two loaded fan wheels every minute the A/C is on. Over the years the bearings dry out and get noisy, or the windings finally give up and the motor won't start. You'll often hear it coming, a growl or a squeal on startup, or the fan will hesitate before it spins. Sometimes it'll run fine on high and refuse to catch on low, or the opposite. Any of those is a motor on its way out, and catching it early keeps you from cooking the capacitor or the fan control along with it.

Install is a job most handy RV owners can knock out in an afternoon. You'll drop the interior air distribution box or ceiling shroud, get up on the roof and lift the outer cover, then unbolt the old motor from its bracket and slide the fan wheels off the shaft. The wheels reuse, the motor gets swapped, and the wiring is a small handful of leads. Two tips from doing these: mark your fan-wheel positions on the shaft before you pull them so each blower sits back at the right depth, and it's smart to replace the run capacitor at the same time since a weak capacitor is often what cooked the original motor in the first place. Reseal the roof gasket if you disturb it.

Who's this for? Anyone keeping an older Coleman-Mach rooftop unit alive instead of buying a whole new air conditioner. A fan motor is a fraction of the cost of a complete rooftop A/C, and on a unit that otherwise cools fine it's the sensible repair. What it's not: this is the fan motor only. It doesn't include the fan wheels, the capacitor, or the compressor, and it won't fix a unit that's low on refrigerant or has a dead compressor. If your A/C isn't cooling but the fan still blows hard, the motor probably isn't your problem. But if airflow has gone weak or the motor won't spin up, this package puts it right.